Tips for Accurate Folding?
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Tips for Accurate Folding?
Hi everyone,
I'm just new to the forum and popped on to get some advice. I'm not exactly new to origami, but I seem to have a problem with accurate folding. While I know the basic folds, bases, etc., and most of my models look find for the most part, I'm still irked. Often, there will be white portions from the back of the paper poking out where it should be a smooth, colored edge. (It's hard to explain this without seeing it). Also, I was trying to fold a modular design, and it seemed as though things wouldn't fit together properly. I credit this to my lack of folding accuracy.
Perhaps I'm too much of a perfectionist. Any pointers?
Thanks,
crh.
I'm just new to the forum and popped on to get some advice. I'm not exactly new to origami, but I seem to have a problem with accurate folding. While I know the basic folds, bases, etc., and most of my models look find for the most part, I'm still irked. Often, there will be white portions from the back of the paper poking out where it should be a smooth, colored edge. (It's hard to explain this without seeing it). Also, I was trying to fold a modular design, and it seemed as though things wouldn't fit together properly. I credit this to my lack of folding accuracy.
Perhaps I'm too much of a perfectionist. Any pointers?
Thanks,
crh.
Hi and welcome to the forum!
Accurate folding is difficult, and it's usually specific to each model. There are general guidelines, though.
For example, the more you can fold by pre-creasing instead of following the first several steps in a model, the better: in a bird base, if you fold all the creases first then collapse it, it will look much better than following the usual steps to get there.
It's also important to figure out which guidelines to place more importance on. For example: in a perfect square, folding a corner to an opposite corner and creasing will make a crease that will split the two other corners in half, while also bringing adjacent sides of the square to lay on top of each other.
Pre-cut paper usually isn't perfectly square, so in this situation, I prefer to make sure to split the two corners separately, and make sure that the adjacent sides of the square lay on top of each other. This means that by the time the creases meet up in the center, they usually hook up at an angle. However, since most appendages in origami come from the corners and edges of the paper, having the corners and edges be accurate is more important than having a perfectly straight crease running through the square.
This last guideline holds when dealing with thick layers. Looking ahead to see which parts are the most visible can help you determine which landmarks to place more importance on.
These are general guidelines. Again, each model has its own sets of problems. I'm sure I'm forgetting various guidelines, so I look forward to what others have to say. I hope this was helpful.
Mike

Accurate folding is difficult, and it's usually specific to each model. There are general guidelines, though.
For example, the more you can fold by pre-creasing instead of following the first several steps in a model, the better: in a bird base, if you fold all the creases first then collapse it, it will look much better than following the usual steps to get there.
It's also important to figure out which guidelines to place more importance on. For example: in a perfect square, folding a corner to an opposite corner and creasing will make a crease that will split the two other corners in half, while also bringing adjacent sides of the square to lay on top of each other.
Pre-cut paper usually isn't perfectly square, so in this situation, I prefer to make sure to split the two corners separately, and make sure that the adjacent sides of the square lay on top of each other. This means that by the time the creases meet up in the center, they usually hook up at an angle. However, since most appendages in origami come from the corners and edges of the paper, having the corners and edges be accurate is more important than having a perfectly straight crease running through the square.
This last guideline holds when dealing with thick layers. Looking ahead to see which parts are the most visible can help you determine which landmarks to place more importance on.
These are general guidelines. Again, each model has its own sets of problems. I'm sure I'm forgetting various guidelines, so I look forward to what others have to say. I hope this was helpful.
Mike
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There is a long thread about this same topic at viewtopic.php?t=504
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Nice, never seen that thread before.Brimstone wrote:There is a long thread about this same topic at viewtopic.php?t=504
I think that precise folding comes for the most part from technique. There's so many ways you can make the same crease, depending on how you hold the paper. For instance, if I'm folding a square in half, corner to corner, or bisecting an angle, make your corners first, gently roll the paper and use a nail to stop at your corner and crease well. Then gently roll the paper into place, pivoting at your corner until you've reached your reference and crease softly. Make sure to keep the paper as taut as possible as your then make a hard crease.
A lot of it has to do with just doing it a lot, and eventually you'll stumble on a method you'll develop without even realizing it.
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That's usually my method. However, when folding one of Froebel's basic forms this evening, I did notice that my paper was a little off as far as size goes. I buy my paper at a local craft store-- it's the Aitoh brand origami paper. It's nice and cheap, and since I'm not a complete afficionado as of yet, it'll do.origami street racer wrote:I usually make the model over and over till I have it memorized then the next one I make is perfect.
I would suggest using your finger nail to sharpen your folds, it really works. But do not do this if you are not sure where exactly you are going to make a crease.
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