How to be more accurate?

[Wuggums47]

I have been folding since I was five years old, but to this day, I'm still not perfect with folding. I'm far from being so sloppy that I can't finish complex models, but it seems that most of the time there is something wrong by a a few of milimeters or so, sometimes in more than one place. Sometimes the whole model can get thrown off if I make a mistake early on. The inaccuracies are more common in first attempts. Another problem is when folding with japanese foil. It seems with japanese foil, there is no way for me to fold it without some crumpling developing, especially if it's a model with many closed sinks and wraps, like Patricia Crawfords fully rigged ship. Is there some sort of special technique with foil that I don't know about? Also the last time I folded a Giang Dinh model, what I got was less of an adorable cat, and more of a cat-like blob monster. It's worth noting that I have a condition that effects fine motor skills, but I have been doing my best to not let it dictate what I can and can't do. I also Do micromaille chainmaille, and a lot of people would say that's impossible with hands as shaky as mine.

[Baltorigamist]

The best advice I can give is to simply take your time. Folding quickly will throw you off more than just about anything else.
Also, make sure the preliminary creases are as precise as possible. As has been said, a tiny mistake there throws everything off later on.

As far as the foil issue, just be careful when folding. It may help to unfold the model a bit to help with wraps and unsinks.

[roodborst]

If you have a problem with your fine moter skills, maybe a bone folding tool will help. Haven't used it myself but they sell them on origamishop and I have seen sarah adams using them in her video's. Maybe a cheap letteropener could do the same by the way

[Kafar]

[Swapnil Das]

Haha, nice, Kafar! That's what you need, Patience.

[marckrsh]

I suppose patience helps, but other things will improve accuracy as well. A big one is trying to fold towards a folded edge (as opposed to a crease) whenever possible. You can rest your fingertips on the edges that will meet and feel when things are in alignment. That same fingertip will act as a "clamp" to prevent overshooting the fold.

For example, lots of models start with folding the paper in half, and then folding the edges into that crease. I will substitute the first fold with a mountain fold and then bring the edges to meet that crease.

Softer papers might help. Using something with a high foil content might cause "premature commitement" (I just made up that expression).

Hope that makes sense! - Marc

[Yiggy]

Premature commitment, thats a good term. I hate when I have a fold that I later have to shift every so slightly, which makes that crease sort of double-wide after I swivel it into proper place. Part of that is just experience and practice but I'm getting better at recognizing when I should hold off on burnishing the crease with a nail and leaving it soft so I can shift it later. I think thats part of it (still learning though, of course, and maybe I'm wrong =p).

[greencube07]

Another problem is when folding with japanese foil. It seems with japanese foil, there is no way for me to fold it without some crumpling developing, especially if it's a model with many closed sinks and wraps, like Patricia Crawfords fully rigged ship. Is there some sort of special technique with foil that I don't know about?

As far as I know, there's no way you'll get your folds folded with foil papers, without crumpling it(at least a little part of them has to be.) Since that's one of the its characteristics, it's pretty normal
I have used foil papers for quite a long period of time, but I don't think there is any sort of special technique for that, you just have to practice a lot to get used to the paper..

[origamifreak_1.6180339889]

i find that precreasing everything before you begin to fold helps a ton. you should precrease every part of the model, even the shaping and thinning should be precreased before you start.

[Justinorigami]

Just take your time. Accuracy is most important at the beginning of the model, so be really precise there.

[origamipete]

I suppose patience helps, but other things will improve accuracy as well. A big one is trying to fold towards a folded edge (as opposed to a crease) whenever possible. - Marc

great suggestion Marc! I have to admit I am not sure whether i do this when i fold! thank you!

[al-black]

I suppose patience helps, but other things will improve accuracy as well. A big one is trying to fold towards a folded edge (as opposed to a crease) whenever possible. - Marc

great suggestion Marc! I have to admit I am not sure whether i do this when i fold! thank you!

Yes, Marc thanks. It really does work well.

I've just started trying out Ronald Koh's pig, and I'm using a big sheet of paper (60x60). It starts with a diagonal grid at the start so inaccuracy shows up pretty quickly. After sorta screwing one up, I remembered two accuracy "tricks" I use. Get my head over the reference point I'm folding to, so I'm looking straight down at it. The second on is to have good light. <= that may have to do with age.

[roodborst]

What helps for me is starting your fold from the corner. So any point align neatly.
Also when diagrams tell you to valley fold and then sink an area I always mountain fold it aswell to making the sinking easier. Hope that makes sense!

[roodborst]

For crumpling when using tissue foil: I always make triple tissue foil. White-foil-black-black for example. Although it is thicker it will not work for all models but it is easier to fold and does not crumple as much. You can get some interesting colors this way as well.

[origamifan11]

It depends on the model. If it comes from a cp, then test fold the parts of it that you think are the most important. If it is a diagrammed model, I prefer to make a test fold of it from a3 printer paper (I have about 400 sheets left) and then fold it out of a good paper when I feel it looks good enough. Also just be patient, feel free to have a break. Every once in a while, stop folding, have a glass of water and something to eat, then continue folding. Remember, you don't have a deadline on when it's due (unless, it is commissioned or for a challenge, etc.), so you can take multiple days to fold it. If you think that you are losing concentration, then stop folding for a little while. When you lose concentration, your folds won't be as accurate as when you are concentrating. Now for some tips on becoming more accurate in folding. Firstly, pre-crease everything that needs it, whether that be a sink, petal fold, elias stretch, etc. Secondly, have a good source of light, you can't see your creases very well if you're in a poorly lit room. Thirdly, when folding with large paper and folding a grid, perhaps for a boxpleated cp, I generally line up the edge of the paper with the crease i'm using as a reference and fold a bit of the paper, then line it up again and fold a little bit more, until I finish that line (hopefully, that made sense). Lastly, if you're folding a cp, pre-crease the whole thing. A good example of this would be with the Ryujin (or any other scaled thing with a cp). Don't just preacrease most of it (everything but the scales), but rather everything (including the scales). This helps a lot with how the turn out, as the paper tends to warp with the more folds in it, making it less accurate to fold later, rather than pre-crease. I hope what I have said makes sense and helps some people.