Designing Models and Collapsing Crease Patterns
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Designing Models and Collapsing Crease Patterns
Hi All,
I have decided to make this topic for two reasons
1) Whether or not to buy a certain origami book
2) How to learn to collapse CP's
I have been heavily into origami for 4 years now, and over that time, I have witnessed many models and crease patterns (one of which I have folded ). I would like to know how much experience one requires to fold crease patterns and eventually design models. I am able to fold super complex models from diagrams such as the Ancient Dragon and Kamiya's wizard. I have heard that once you start designing, collapsing CP's is easier and vice-versa, is this true? Also, I have been pondering whether or not to purchase Lang's 'Origami Design Secrets'. Will this book actually help give me an idea how models are constructed and therefore make the task of collapsing a CP any easier?
Many Thanks
Blue
I have decided to make this topic for two reasons
1) Whether or not to buy a certain origami book
2) How to learn to collapse CP's
I have been heavily into origami for 4 years now, and over that time, I have witnessed many models and crease patterns (one of which I have folded ). I would like to know how much experience one requires to fold crease patterns and eventually design models. I am able to fold super complex models from diagrams such as the Ancient Dragon and Kamiya's wizard. I have heard that once you start designing, collapsing CP's is easier and vice-versa, is this true? Also, I have been pondering whether or not to purchase Lang's 'Origami Design Secrets'. Will this book actually help give me an idea how models are constructed and therefore make the task of collapsing a CP any easier?
Many Thanks
Blue
For free internet diagrams for Satoshi Kamiya's Ancient Dragon,
click the link: http://goo.gl/Y8SxM
click the link: http://goo.gl/Y8SxM
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Re: Designing Models and Collapsing Crease Patterns
Hi Blue
designing origami is very complicated but Origami Design Secrets is the book for you it has almost all of the answers you want. some of ODS is hard to under stand but if you read through the whole book you will get a basic understanding of design. as for CPs you want to start out with easer ones Eric Joisel has one for his dwarf which is a good first CP. Creating Origami by JC Nolan is a book with some design information too it is much easer to understand than ODS.
Hope this makes sence
OG
designing origami is very complicated but Origami Design Secrets is the book for you it has almost all of the answers you want. some of ODS is hard to under stand but if you read through the whole book you will get a basic understanding of design. as for CPs you want to start out with easer ones Eric Joisel has one for his dwarf which is a good first CP. Creating Origami by JC Nolan is a book with some design information too it is much easer to understand than ODS.
Hope this makes sence
OG
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Re: Designing Models and Collapsing Crease Patterns
I'm not quite sure what to say about your post.
It really does depend on the design technique used in the crease pattern and your folding style.
If you want to learn about box pleating, hex pleating, and circle river packing, ODS is the book for you. However, it has nothing on 22.5 degree designing, and relatively little on designing with traditional bases.
I have yet to find a good source of information on designing using 22.5 degrees.
For crease patterns, having designed some yourself does help because it makes it easier to recognize common molecules and techniques, which can help in the folding. If you want to practice box pleating crease patterns, there are a lot of places available. For 22.5 degree, check out Gen Hagiwara's flickr page.
I have not yet purchased Creating Origami so I can't say anything about that.
I hoped this helped
It really does depend on the design technique used in the crease pattern and your folding style.
If you want to learn about box pleating, hex pleating, and circle river packing, ODS is the book for you. However, it has nothing on 22.5 degree designing, and relatively little on designing with traditional bases.
I have yet to find a good source of information on designing using 22.5 degrees.
For crease patterns, having designed some yourself does help because it makes it easier to recognize common molecules and techniques, which can help in the folding. If you want to practice box pleating crease patterns, there are a lot of places available. For 22.5 degree, check out Gen Hagiwara's flickr page.
I have not yet purchased Creating Origami so I can't say anything about that.
I hoped this helped
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Re: Designing Models and Collapsing Crease Patterns
I would definitely recommend buying ODS (especially the 2nd edition), but again, only if you're interested in box-pleating and/or hex-pleating. As far as designing with 22.5deg structure, the best advice I can give is to study 22.5 CPs and try to get an idea of how they were designed, and then just to play with various 22.5 molecules and see what arrangements give certain kinds of flaps.
As far as solving CPs, my advice is essentially the same: study existing CPs and play around with them a little to familiarize yourself with the various molecules and model structures. I'm willing to help you if you need it.
As far as solving CPs, my advice is essentially the same: study existing CPs and play around with them a little to familiarize yourself with the various molecules and model structures. I'm willing to help you if you need it.
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Re: Designing Models and Collapsing Crease Patterns
Thanks for the quick replies guys,
I think I shall buy ODS (and perhaps ODS 2 afterwards) to learn more about box pleated CP's. I personally find it harder to collapse 22.5 degree CP's such as Ryu Jin 1.2, so I shall gain more practice from box pleating and then hex-pleating. Currently I am precreasing Petr Stuchly's velvet mite seeing as it is one of the easier looking crease patterns I have found.
I have found your information helpful, thank you all very much for helping out a folder in need
Regards
Blue
EDIT: I mean the head part of the Ryu Zin.
I think I shall buy ODS (and perhaps ODS 2 afterwards) to learn more about box pleated CP's. I personally find it harder to collapse 22.5 degree CP's such as Ryu Jin 1.2, so I shall gain more practice from box pleating and then hex-pleating. Currently I am precreasing Petr Stuchly's velvet mite seeing as it is one of the easier looking crease patterns I have found.
I have found your information helpful, thank you all very much for helping out a folder in need
Regards
Blue
EDIT: I mean the head part of the Ryu Zin.
Last edited by BlueFireOrigami on September 27th, 2014, 11:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
For free internet diagrams for Satoshi Kamiya's Ancient Dragon,
click the link: http://goo.gl/Y8SxM
click the link: http://goo.gl/Y8SxM
Re: Designing Models and Collapsing Crease Patterns
As far as I know, ODS 2 contains everything from ODS and some extra (its a second edition/ revision rather than a completely new book) so I'd make sure you pick up the second edition rather than buying both. It's definitely worth getting, though! Hope this helps.
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Re: Designing Models and Collapsing Crease Patterns
Ehh, since when did Ryujin 1.2 become a 22.5 degree CP? And yes, I would definitely recommend ODS 2 as a starting point to designing.BlueFireOrigami wrote: I personally find it harder to collapse 22.5 degree CP's such as Ryu Jin 1.2
Re: Designing Models and Collapsing Crease Patterns
I also agree with Edg: ODS2 is ODS1 plus some additional chapters. The only thing missing from ODS1 is the chapter about the mathematics behind and that's only interesting if you are a lot into maths. You should definitely go for ODS2.
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Re: Designing Models and Collapsing Crease Patterns
Thanks again. Yeah I'll just get the second edition instead of helping the economy by getting both. And sorry for the Ryu Zin 1.2 mistake Swapnil, that's just my inexperience showing
For free internet diagrams for Satoshi Kamiya's Ancient Dragon,
click the link: http://goo.gl/Y8SxM
click the link: http://goo.gl/Y8SxM
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Re: Designing Models and Collapsing Crease Patterns
haha, no problem.
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Re: Designing Models and Collapsing Crease Patterns
Actually, the ryujin 1.2 cp is primarily boxpleating, but there are several 22.5 degree parts in the crease pattern.