The Origami Forum

origami_8 wrote:Yours is looking better than the original one, congratulations

Thank you, it would have sounded cocky if I had said it myself.

One interesting thing about this model was that the reference for the small octagon is not 1/2, neither 1/3 or 1/4 (I tried them all and none worked). What I did was using a Wolf's old advice from a thread I could not locate with the search function, in which she suggested one could find the square (in this case was the octagon) if you had already some of the creases on the CP (instead of the othr way around that is what one usually do). That's what I did.

I folded a small octagon and forced the large flaps to spin around the center and be covered by that star and then cut away the reamining paper. Doing this allowed me to find that the reference was one that you crease from one point to the one across the paper just as you do to find the "large triangles" in Anna's diamond.

I think it is time for another challenge of making a model just out of the picture of a finished one. I propose we work on the Staircase by Andre Rzym. A picture here from Gilad Aharoni's website:

is that from a square or a rectangel.

I suggest boxpleating...
It will be hard estimating what the number of squares should be.

Aznman wrote:is that from a square or a rectangel.

I suggest boxpleating...
It will be hard estimating what the number of squares should be.

It says it is folded from a square. The box pleating is evident and I agree that the most difficult part would be to determine the initial grid.

So why not just do something similar? It does not matter if it does nto have the same number of steps

Et voila


I think that's pretty much the same as the original. I used a 16 x 16 grid. Kami isn't really suitable for this model....

Here's mine:
I tried to find an elegant way to hide the flaps that form from every step of the ladder but did not succed much and for that I agree that it is a model better suited for foil. I thought the back of the model would get closed completely but from your picture I see it is not. I did mine the same.

I think these challenges are a lot of fun.

You guys rock. I really enjoy watching your work.
Just wanted to say that this model is indeed from a 16X16 square,
and the back is nicely closed.

Keep up the good work!

I folded the Staircase by Andre Rzym too.....but with copy paper


Closed back view:


Regards,

Very nice, paperz, but.... you are missing one step

You could still close the back with 6 steps (instead of your five) but it works a bit differently then. The reason I didn't make a closed back was that it was easier to lock the model properly using Kami when forming the back differently.

Thanks Daydreamer! I was about to take a photo of my model and happend to count the steps! ...and then modified the model. I will try making it again....thanks for the pointers. It is the first time I attempted something like this and it was really fun. Waiting for more simple challenges

How about another challenge?
This time is David Brill masu box with thick walls as seen here:

Ooh, that seems like a hard one...

In fact, it's very easy.

Looking at the front edge, I noticed that there was only a crease but no edges meeting each other, so it had to be folded with a fujimoto twist. Drawing all the needed surfaces plus an extra one for locking purposes I had a working crease pattern in a few minutes. I had in mind, that Dave told me about his box being made from A-sized paper so I arranged everything to fit nicely into this shape. Well, I'm pretty sure that the original Folding method can't be far off, because the finished box looks nearly identical. The two large boxes are made from this CP.

Since I had this head start with knowing that I had to begin with an A-sized paper, I decided, that I'm only allowed to write back if I would have folded an identical box from a square. No big deal at all. Just make a twist fold in the middle and fold a box with it, close it like a Kawasaki rose and voilà, you are done. Now its time to fold it with better paper and make some adjustments to the surface sizes... The result is the small (a little bit crumpled) box.

Well done Anna for recreating this... looks like you hit the nail on the head.

Now... how about tackling the Masu Matrioshki variation? see

http://tinyurl.com/2m83p6
http://tinyurl.com/3c4393

Clues: the starting sheet is A4 (then A5, A6, A7, A8 for the boxes which nest inside).
The proportions of the side of each box is a silver rectangle (1:sq. root 2). This means that the width of the first box equals the height of the next box which fits inside.

If you must have diagrams for the original masu which Anna folded, you can get the booklet here: http://www.britishorigami.info/supplies/supplies.php
http://www.britishorigami.info/supplies/data/brilmo.htm



Yours

Dave
dave.brill@btopenworld.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/brill/

Anna I knew you could pull this one off. I couldn't but I made my own version which is not a masu box. It uses a Thoki Yenn's diabolic frame method for the top and a Fujimoto cube twist for the bottom.

Here's a picture of my boxes made from rectangles of different proportions. The model when made from a silver rectangle produces a box without a hole