The Origami Forum

curious what more experienced origamists consider to be pro's and con's of using tracing paper. I've seen quite a bit of google images with final models folded in tracing paper and love the look it gives.
I been using predominately Strathmore tracing paper pads, but recently purchased a roll of tracing paper online. I did not realize their were different weights, and this new stuff is the 7 and 8lbs rolls, while Strathmore is the 25lbs stuff (41gm/2).

also, Any experience with specific models that look nice or good to fold using either of these types of tracing paper?

I don't like it as much as DTMC, doesn't feel as crisp. I prefer to MC a sheet of tissue to it, adds color and folds better I think. I've only used the 7lb so maybe the heavier stuff is better.

For the really thin tracing paper; it's really good for insects as it doesn't buff up the legs and makes them easily shaped and folded flat.

For the stiff tracing paper (yes I have seen some, it's like thin plastic practically) it's trash. Well I shouldn't say that, but if you crease it 2+ times on a single crease, it'll just split.

With thin tracing paper I like making Kawasaki roses. Sure, it's very frail-like and barely holds the rose together; but if you just dip your fingers in water and touch up the petals on the rose--you can get beautiful flow in your rose.

Issues with some tracing papers I have found include the fact it's not nearly as strong as other papers. It's also not fibrous if that's the look you are going for. For models without a lot of folds or models that need heavier paper to hold it together, tracing paper isn't so good.

The label on the Strathmore stuff isn't accurate, and I use it a lot. 41g is about 10lb--average copy paper is about 83g and 22lb. Strathmore is a lot thinner that 1/2 that of copy paper, probably about 25-28g.

Apart from that, I agree with Razmatazz in that it's good for insects and the like. I've also tried some box-pleated models with it (just a couple of experimental designs) and found that it only works well if the folding sequence is somewhat linear and never involves flaps with an insane amount of layers.

Tracing paper is excellent to fold with, except it's not very strong, and loose, so you have to flatten it every few minutes. At the end, you can apply a wet fold finish to combine the layers (use a damp cloth to do so, then quickly put something heaving on it and flatten.) Hope this helped

I find it to be very strong as long as there aren't a lot of unsinks or anything.

is their anyway to glue it together to make large sheets because when i glue the seams become very wrinkled and unfoldable

I just buy a huge roll of it.

I just use thin and clear tape, and it works pretty well as long as you fold carefully.

kk o just bought the 19x24 inch pad of strathmore and i wantesto know before i started glueing

I've been using that for a while, and the tape should be fine. While I've never used taped paper outright (I've never needed to because it doesn't rip), there should be no problems.

Can anyone tell me if an 8lb tracing paper would work for the Ryujin 2.1?

Yup, it'll work great. I folded Ermakov's mantis Shrimp, arguably more complex, from 18" 8lb tracing paper. I've also folded ryujin 2.1 from 19" 21 lb tracing paper. It feels nearly the same as the 8 lb stuff but slightly stiffer.

Ok Thanks!
Did you actually fold the Mantis Shrimp from an 18"(about 46cm) square ! The grid must have become very small?

I use thin tracing paper, and I find it quite strong. The only issue is that reversing creases can sometimes be difficult, and it only comes in white. It works very well for test folds.