Robert J. Lang - White-Tailed Deer (CP)

euroboy · Post by **euroboy** » June 4th, 2009, 2:33 pm

ftangdude55 wrote:

You are a talented folder

Post by **origami_8** » June 4th, 2009, 5:17 pm

ftangdude55 wrote:Hopefully, in the future, I will be able to find some pure MC, and some paper to apply it to, once I have enough money.

MC isn't expensive and tissue paper isn't as well and the MC lasts a very long time. Even with a very small amount of money you should be able to get these.

ftangdude55 · Post by **ftangdude55** » June 4th, 2009, 10:16 pm

I just learned that Elmer's Art Paste is Methyl Cellulose powder (thank you, BluePaper!). So, I'll head to the local art store and see if I can find it.

origamimasterjared · Post by **origamimasterjared** » June 4th, 2009, 10:25 pm

Y'all know that white glue works too, right? PVA--that's the stuff Kamiya uses (or at least used to use).

orion119net · Post by **orion119net** » June 4th, 2009, 11:53 pm

I've been meaning to test out the white glue thing for a while now, but I can't figure out a good way to keep it from gluing to the table. Any suggestions?

SpecialOrigami · Post by **SpecialOrigami** » June 5th, 2009, 12:24 am

Hang the paper up after you glue it.

Jonnycakes · Post by **Jonnycakes** » June 5th, 2009, 3:11 am

If you coat the paper on a sheet of glass it shouldn't stick too much. Hanging a piece of paper to dry could warp it, but I have not tried it personally.

origamimasterjared · Post by **origamimasterjared** » June 5th, 2009, 3:27 am

I should add...

The reason you use MC on high quality papers is to keep the whole thing archival. If you use good quality acid-free paper and adhesive that's not acid-free, that's a waste. i.e. don't use spray glue on Origamido or Gampi paper. If you use paper that's not pH-balanced, then it's not necessary to use a pH-neutral adhesive like methyl-cellulose. However, it's not a huge waste, as it's not that expensive, and does have nice properties (like not sticking too strongly to other stuff).

Note: acid-free and pH-balanced are basically the same. Technically pH-balanced is a better term to use.

Wizmatt · Post by **Wizmatt** » June 5th, 2009, 8:45 am

I've found that treating tissue paper with PVA makes the final shaping a lot easier as it's more sticky, so it's good for thinning legs ect. But wouldn't use it on more expensive handmade paper, I use MC for that as it lasts longer then PVA.

lwelborn · Post by **lwelborn** » June 6th, 2009, 4:18 am

Any help describing Step 21 in the Lang Deer sequence.
I am flumuxed.
Is it a simple or fairly involved fold?

Got it#### Now I am stuck on 25 will let you know if 24hrs does not bring light

ftangdude55 · Post by **ftangdude55** » June 6th, 2009, 12:59 pm

Which deer are you talking about, lwelborn?
Are you talking about Lang's Bull Moose? Because I'm pretty sure that that is the only deer-like thing he has made diagrams for...

topsu · Post by **topsu** » June 6th, 2009, 1:56 pm

I just tried this model, and it turned out pretty well!

Now i'm planning to fold it with better paper.

Wizmatt · Post by **Wizmatt** » June 6th, 2009, 9:05 pm

ftangdude55 wrote:Which deer are you talking about, lwelborn?

lwelborn may be talking about the deer in 'Complete Origami' by Lang. But that one is made from a 2x1 rectangle.

topsu · Post by **topsu** » June 7th, 2009, 12:24 pm

Here's my little deer

And....

...My deer riding a motorcycle!

legionzilla · Post by **legionzilla** » June 7th, 2009, 12:37 pm

Ha, funny.

The Origami Forum

Robert J. Lang - White-Tailed Deer (CP)

STEP 21 PUZZLES me