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Posted: September 16th, 2005, 11:03 am
esato wrote:Anna, did you use tissue foil ?
Yes. I mentioned in another topic that this model should be folded with very thin tissue foil. My first trial was also with printer paper, but I wasn't able to thin the legs and antennae as much as I wanted because the paper got so bulky.
Also this is a very good model for tissue foil because you don't have to turn creases over if they are made mountain-valley-mountain...
The collapsing process is very easy, don't think just collapse on the precreases. On the second time I was able to fold this model by heart because I only had to remember where the vertical creases are
Oh, and Phil: Very cool Insect, I haven't seen one before.
Posted: September 17th, 2005, 4:36 am
phil wrote:I folded it the first time with printer paper the result was very messy, I then used tissue foil it works a lot better. After you get the base there are many different ways to do the final shaping. I narrow the jaws using the method Robert Lang uses on his longhorn beetle from Origami Insects Two. I rabbit ear the legs out to the side and crimp them to form the joints. The wings are made by pulling out the internal layers of the flaps starting with the smallest, although I do the front wings different.
Could you explain Lang's method to narrow the jaws?
To me the biggest challenge in final shaping is doing the insect's body segments. I also couldn't make the antennae and jaws long enough. This weekend I'll try again with tissue foil.
Posted: September 17th, 2005, 4:23 pm
esato wrote:To me the biggest challenge in final shaping is doing the insect's body segments. I also couldn't make the antennae and jaws long enough. This weekend I'll try again with tissue foil.
1.) Use larger and/or thinner paper.
2.) If you can't do the body segments trough all the layers, then make them only on the top layer. In the seventh picture from my previous post you can see that there are two overlaying corners at the end of the tail. When making the body segments, you can use the upper layer to have free paper for your pleats.
Posted: December 15th, 2005, 5:55 pm
I tried folding the dobsonfly again, this time using tissue foil. It turned out better than the last one made with printer paper. But it's not nearly as beautiful as Anna's or Phil's. I think I used paper that was too small (27x27cm). Now I want to try again using larger paper.
Anna, what size(s) of paper did you use?
Posted: December 15th, 2005, 6:19 pm
The largest paper I used for folding the dobson fly was 30x30 cm, but I folded it from 20x20 cm paper too and it turned out pretty well.
Posted: December 20th, 2005, 9:20 pm
Here is a picture of the ugly dobsonfly I've folded... I'll try again later with larger paper.
Posted: December 21st, 2005, 1:43 am
For this model, it's the thickness of the paper that's more important, rather than the size. The box pleats result in a lot of layers in this model, and if the paper isn't strong enough, it'll inevitably split or spread apart as you narrow the various portions.
Tissue foil can be too thick, depending on the type of foil and whether you have a single or double layer of tissue. I'd say a single layer with the cheapest foil is best. Alternatively, just throw out the foil and use a single or backcoated sheet of tissue.
Posted: December 21st, 2005, 2:22 am
Wolf, what do you mean by "single backcoated tissue" ? Do you mean two sheets of tissue paper glued together without the aluminum foil layer ?
Posted: December 21st, 2005, 2:52 am
Sorry, I should have made it clearer that I was referring to two different things.
"single" = single sheet of tissue applied only to one side of the foil.
The backcoated tissue contains no foil at all, but just two tissue sheets glued together with your adhesive of choice (PVA, MC, etc). The resulting double sheet is sturdy enough to fold, but might still be fairly thick.
Related to this is a single sheet of resized tissue - just apply methylcellulose to one single tissue sheet, let it dry, then fold it. It's a bit tricky as the paper is thin, but you can get really great aspect ratios from it (good for skinny legs and antennae).
Also, although I've referred to tissue, the same applies to the usual artisan papers like unryu and hanji.
Posted: December 22nd, 2005, 11:51 pm
hmm, looks like i'm gonna start folding from some crease patterns!!
would standard origami paper be suitable for this little beauty?
Posted: December 23rd, 2005, 1:51 am
jason gaffney wrote:would standard origami paper be suitable for this little beauty?
By standard, I assume you're talking about either 6" or 10" kami?
If so, it's possible to fold the CP - up to a point. With 10", you can certainly get the base. The problem comes when you start narrowing the points to form the skinny antennae, legs and body; kami is too thick for this to be done neatly, and various parts will tend to split.
Posted: May 7th, 2006, 12:46 am
my dobsonfly is very ugly, but it may claim the biggest dobsonfly in the world,
thanks to all post in this topic
Posted: July 9th, 2007, 12:30 am
What do you mean hard? i finished it and got a good result easily! it looks hard but its actualy pretty easy...it just takes while to make all of the folds, but collapsing is pretty easy.
good luck with it!
Posted: March 3rd, 2009, 8:35 pm
Hi I was thinking of trying the dobson fly and wanted to look at your pics you posted on here / But some of them arnt showing up can you fix them so i can look at them for refrnce Anna??
Hope you dont mind me asking.
Posted: March 4th, 2009, 9:58 pm
I'm very sorry, but it seems the pictures got lost in time, I'm unable to locate them on my computer. Since they have been named "Dobsonfly" and a full system search didn't yield any other results then already finished models its very likely that they are gone.
For a start with the CP I recommend you reading Gerwin Sturm's boxpleating guide: http://www.origamiaustria.at/articles.php?lang=2#4
For the Dobsonfly you start out with a 40x40grid. Then add all the diagonals, make some Elias Stretches and the like and finally shape to taste.