MC - Methyl Cellulose

dren0ma · Post by **dren0ma** » December 13th, 2011, 2:11 pm

does MC stick with baking paper?

fncll · Post by **fncll** » December 13th, 2011, 7:45 pm

Not very well in my experience, which makes sense given that baking paper is permeated with silicon. Are you trying to bind the baking paper to something else?

Illya · Post by **Illya** » January 5th, 2012, 2:32 am

Hi Every one I have a question to the community. When i prepare a double tissue with MC I notice that some regions don't glue perfectly ( I can separate the papers with out effort). I bought my MC in a local art store. I want to know if any one has experienced this?

I'm sure that I have all the paper covered. But I don't understand why this happens.

Beleg Cúthalion · Post by **Beleg Cúthalion** » January 5th, 2012, 2:48 am

Illya wrote:Hi Every one I have a question to the community. When i prepare a double tissue with MC I notice that some regions don't glue perfectly ( I can separate the papers with out effort). I bought my MC in a local art store. I want to know if any one has experienced this?

I'm sure that I have all the paper covered. But I don't understand why this happens.

Maybe you are doing the process wrong. First you apply MC to the surface, then you put the tissue paper, later you apply MC to the paper, then you put the other tissue paper, and finally you apply more MC.

Hope it helps

Youtube channel · Post by **phillipcurl** » January 5th, 2012, 4:11 am

what i do is I put just a little spritz of spray adhesive on the surface (i use a large plastic) then lay 1 sheet of tissue paper down on that and smooth all the bubbles out. I then put another spritz of spray adhesive to that sheet of tissue, then lay another down carefully, line it up as good as i can, and smooth it out. I let that sit for about 5 minutes, then put a thick coating of MC on the paper, and let it dry overnight. The paper will perform best if you let it sit for about 2 days.
Hope this helps

Illya · Post by **Illya** » January 6th, 2012, 3:26 am

Beleg Cúthalion wrote:
Illya wrote:Hi Every one I have a question to the community. When i prepare a double tissue with MC I notice that some regions don't glue perfectly ( I can separate the papers with out effort). I bought my MC in a local art store. I want to know if any one has experienced this?

I'm sure that I have all the paper covered. But I don't understand why this happens.
Maybe you are doing the process wrong. First you apply MC to the surface, then you put the tissue paper, later you apply MC to the paper, then you put the other tissue paper, and finally you apply more MC.

Hope it helps

I will try this, next time, Thanks!!

jewishdan18 · Post by **jewishdan18** » January 6th, 2012, 7:09 am

I've been working on my method for a while, and reached some interesting results, which other people with the same problem as me might find useful. I'm working on a sheet of polycarbonate, and I've found that if I brush out as many wrinkles in the paper as possible, the paper comes off the sheet when it dries. If I intentionally make large wrinkles, let the sheet dry, then go over the wrinkles with a MC-dipped finger and flatten them, the sheet dries perfectly. The way I see it, the wrinkles leave room for the paper to contract as a dries. I've always seen people say "make sure to get rid of all the wrinkles and air bubbles", but if your sheets are coming off your surface as they dry, leaving the wrinkles in might fix it.

tryingtofoldsumthing · January 30th, 2012, 4:28 am

jewishdan18 wrote:I've been working on my method for a while, and reached some interesting results, which other people with the same problem as me might find useful. I'm working on a sheet of polycarbonate, and I've found that if I brush out as many wrinkles in the paper as possible, the paper comes off the sheet when it dries. If I intentionally make large wrinkles, let the sheet dry, then go over the wrinkles with a MC-dipped finger and flatten them, the sheet dries perfectly. The way I see it, the wrinkles leave room for the paper to contract as a dries. I've always seen people say "make sure to get rid of all the wrinkles and air bubbles", but if your sheets are coming off your surface as they dry, leaving the wrinkles in might fix it.

I have done this also, it can be very annoying to wake up in the morning and find that all of the beautiful paper has come off the sheet and is now warped and curved everywhere

However, make sure not to leave the wrinkles too big, or else it will contract but not enough, and leave big dried bubbles in the paper. Which is also very annoying.

Youtube channel · Post by **phillipcurl** » February 3rd, 2012, 4:10 am

I have just recently started using powder MC (i was using pre-mixed before) and i can't get it to mix right.
I have tried mixing with cold water, then with a little hot and a lotta cold water before, but it always turns out the same: like water.

any tips?

fncll · Post by **fncll** » February 3rd, 2012, 4:53 am

What ratio of powdered MC to water are you using? I use about 2 teaspoons to 12 oz of hot water, and mix. It takes 20+ minutes for the MC to absorb the water, stirring every few minutes.

Youtube channel · Post by **phillipcurl** » February 3rd, 2012, 4:57 am

1 tsp to 1 pint of cold water...
dammit. i wasted like 4 teaspoons of the crap.
so you don't have to use any cold water? it still disolves in warm water?

fncll · Post by **fncll** » February 3rd, 2012, 5:56 am

I should clarify that I meant "hot water" as in from the hot water tap, not boiling or burning hot. I don't know, maybe 110 degrees? If you start cooler and can avoid lumps, you can do it all at once. I have a few friends who do bookbinding who mix about 1/3 hot water and then add the rest slowly.

There are different viscosities of the powder itself... higher for adhesive, lower for sizing paper.

Youtube channel · Post by **phillipcurl** » February 3rd, 2012, 5:59 am

I know what you meant.
i can't avoid lumps with a lower temp though. i tried. so a good ratio is 2/12, right?

booggerboy · Post by **booggerboy** » February 3rd, 2012, 2:59 pm

I use one teaspoon of powder for 12ish fluid oz. I usually start as if I'm making a white sauce for a lasagna, by mixing a little water in to start and then adding the rest. But I do it in a jam jar, which I can tightly seal and shake like crazy.

Then I leave the stuff overnight, and shake it up again the next day. As others have said egg-white consistency seems to be about right.

I've also bought a sheet of toughened glass 50cm by 50cm and 6mm thick for mc'ing the paper on. It cost 15 quid (18 euro), and is also nice to fold on.

Paper-wise, I just got a bunch of mulberry delivered from www.easycraft.com - 30 sheets of 47cm by 60cm cost about 22 euros. It seems a little thicker than 25gsm suggests, and has some fairly large "artefacts" that make folding tricky in parts. Can post an image if anyone is interested...

bb

jewishdan18 · Post by **jewishdan18** » February 4th, 2012, 4:06 am

: However, make sure not to leave the wrinkles too big, or else it will contract but not enough, and leave big dried bubbles in the paper. Which is also very annoying.

The trick is to go through after it dries with a finger dipped in MC and flatten the wrinkles. Some parts get folded over, but it is _very_ flat.

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