This topic is about transferring CPs to very large pieces of origami paper that would not fit in a normal printer. These methods may not be true to the spirit of origami, but I think they would be effective.
1. The Overhead Projector
Get an overhead projector, like the kind used in school. Print the crease pattern on a piece of transparency film (it is a clear plastic sheet) and project the image onto a large piece of origami that is hung on the wall. Trace the lines with a pencil.
PROS:
-The size of the image can be adjusted by moving the location of the projector.
-Projectors are relatively cheap on ebay: http://search.ebay.com/overhead-projector maybe about $50 USD after shipping.
CONS:
-You need to print a new transparency for each new CP.
-The projector is large and bulky.
-Replacement bulbs can be pricey.
-Image could be blurry.
2. The LCD Projector
Hook up the LCD Projector to your computer. Open a picture of the CP on your computer. Project the image onto a large piece of origami paper hung on the wall. Trace the line with a pencil.
PROS:
-You can store thousands of CPs on your computer.
-The image will be crystal clear.
CONS:
-LCD projectors can costs hundreds of dollars
The CNC Machine
The CNC Machine is a computer controlled device that accurately reproduces 2 dimensional and 3 dimensional computer designs on a material (paper, wood, metal, plastic). You could input the CP into the CNC machine and it would draw the CP onto the origami paper. You could replace the drawing tip with a blunt tip and the CNC machine could precrease the CP into the paper.
PROS:
-CP will be duplicated with a high level of accuracy
-Ability to draw or precrease
CONS:
-Cost may be a factor. Note that you can make your own CNC machine: http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to ... g-Machine/
-Knowledge of computers required
Let me know what you think and any of your methods for transferring CPs to large pieces of paper.
Novel Methods for Transferring Crease Patterns
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- origamimasterjared
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Bigger con for the first two methods: tracing the CP with a pencil. Although what you can do is to mark the crease intersections, and connect them with a ruler. Still not the best, but it's more reliable than tracing all the lines.
The best thing is to understand/locate the reference points, and then reconstruct the CP from there.
The scoring machine isn't terrible though. It reminds me of Tachi Tomohiro's use of a machine--I think it's called the Craft Robo Pro--to score those insane 3D CPs he creates with his origamizer. ( http://www.flickr.com/photos/tactom )
The best thing is to understand/locate the reference points, and then reconstruct the CP from there.
The scoring machine isn't terrible though. It reminds me of Tachi Tomohiro's use of a machine--I think it's called the Craft Robo Pro--to score those insane 3D CPs he creates with his origamizer. ( http://www.flickr.com/photos/tactom )
I agree with you both that the best method is to understand how CPs are designed and how they work to create the model. I fold from CPs, however I am also interested in new methods that make life easier
origamimasterjared, that Origamizer software is fascinating. Tomohiro Tachi's site has other interesting software that I'll be looking into. Thanks!
origamimasterjared, that Origamizer software is fascinating. Tomohiro Tachi's site has other interesting software that I'll be looking into. Thanks!
- origami street racer
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Print the CP as a poster on several sheets and glue them together. Most printers have this function in built and if not here is a free little program (poster printer) that enlarges and splits up the CP for you: http://www.mephzara.com/freezone/freezone_e.php