Satoshi Kamiya - Ryu Zin (CP)

ftangdude55 · Post by **ftangdude55** » March 9th, 2009, 3:19 pm

Oh. so that's what you mean. I put them on my photostream to post the links, but they are on the "private" setting, so you can't see them.
I didn't want to make it seem like it was me who made them, because it was Froy who made them.

SilverRazor · Post by **SilverRazor** » March 9th, 2009, 7:46 pm

Thanks a lot for the reply, Anna. I actually like folding from cp's, it's quite challenging. I think I'm gonna try folding anything I fold from now on from cp first, and then maybe by diagram. I think that will give me some good feel for nuts and bolts of the origami and stuff

Froy · Post by **Froy** » March 9th, 2009, 9:08 pm

No problem

ftangdude55 wrote:Here is a guide for those parts that Froy made, abisha.
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3
I hope you don't mind, Froy.

Zoraz · Post by **Zoraz** » March 14th, 2009, 2:20 am

Today I started my ryu jin attempt by trying out the part that seems to give everyone trouble: the head. It turned out pretty good in the back half, but the front half i know is completely wrong. I have 5 flaps in the front, 2 small and 3 medium sized. There are also three medium sized points on the side of the head. In the back are four long points. The problem: How is the mouth collapsed, and where did the front whiskers go?

Froy · Post by **Froy** » March 17th, 2009, 10:35 pm

I'm stuck in the horn-scale connection part for 3.5.

Any ideas? or m/v CP?

I've tried like in 2.1 (folding the plates for the scales untill you reach the top and the sink everything) but in 3.5 is more comlex.

oriman 217 · Post by **oriman 217** » March 21st, 2009, 12:40 am

The paper that I have is 80 by 80 inches(about two meters)and the paper is like three feet taller than me and I was debating wether I should cut the paper shorter or leave it as is

P.S.The sheer size of this paper is extremly difficult to work with for me

ftangdude55 · Post by **ftangdude55** » March 21st, 2009, 2:35 am

I think that you should cut the paper (1/4 of the size).
You shouldn't have to sacrifice handling the paper easily to the size of the paper/exactness of the folds.

But exactness of folds is still recommended with the smaller size.

Jonnycakes · Post by **Jonnycakes** » March 21st, 2009, 5:31 am

Well, I believe Kamiya used a 1.8x1.8 meter sheet. At any rate, he used a sheet of similar size to yours. Large sheets are hard to work with, even at 30 inches to a side. My recommendation is to not cut it down by too much if at all and just deal with it-it is going to be a pain. You don't want to cut it down so small that the model will be too small to fold well. Then again, I have never folded it, so I may be way off base. Those are my thoughts.

artur biernacki · Post by **artur biernacki** » March 21st, 2009, 11:53 am

Kamiya folded Ryu zin 3,5 from 2m x 2m and ryuzin 2,1 from 1,6 m x 1,6 m.
Artur

HankSimon · Post by **HankSimon** » March 21st, 2009, 8:14 pm

I bow to the opinions and experience of the other folders on this topic, but here is my general opinion:

1. When first doing the model, I seem to have an easier time using the recommended size.
2. Once I've folded a model successfully a few times, then I'll use larger paper, if I think that I'll like the larger model.
3. Sometimes that has been a big mistake, because the larger paper doesn't have the strength and tension necessary, and the model turns out to be loose and floppy - sometimes fixable, but not satisfactory in that case. And, thicker paper may not be easy to fold.
4. After I've attempted a larger model, I'll then attempt a smaller model, just for fun... but I'm rarely good with smaller models, unless I've completed a few standard sizes first

5. A large model takes much longer to fold than a smaller model, because you have to physically move, align, and smooth the paper after each fold. And the natural friction may not hold the layers together.

6. However, since I can use my entire hand, rather than the tip of a toothpick, in tight space, then I can make sharper folds.

(One more thing, Kamiya can use larger paper... because he is Kamiya)

My two cents,

- Hank Simon

Post by **origami_8** » March 21st, 2009, 8:57 pm

Well, Hank, that's really nice and I would agree in most points if there would be a recommended size. But seeing that there is only a Crease Pattern published, without any further recommendations and that Kamiya himself used a 2m square and the outcome really looks tiny (I've seen the original Rju Zin at a convention) maybe it wouldn't be such a bad idea to begin with a large sheet like this too.

oriman 217 · Post by **oriman 217** » March 21st, 2009, 9:24 pm

Another reason why i wanted to cut it down was that there is no place in my house thats big enough unless I moved some couches but my mom wont let me

but anyway thx for the suggestions

Zoraz · Post by **Zoraz** » March 22nd, 2009, 3:06 am

I ordered my kraft paper from Terry's shop. I just have one question about it... Can I just fold this paper as is, or do I have to backcoat/treat it in some way?

Adam · Post by **Adam** » March 22nd, 2009, 3:56 pm

I just tried to backcoat some 80 g/sm Kraft paper using MC and it turned out very, very wrinkly. I wouldn't suggest using it before you fold it, because it'll ruin the paper. Perhaps you could use some MC when you shape the model.

Wizmatt · Post by **Wizmatt** » March 22nd, 2009, 6:51 pm

I know this is a bit off topic, but is the eagle on the front of 'Licence to fold' made from that kraft paper...and how would one go about folding with it to make ryu zin or the eagle?

I have tried folding some modles with it and it seems to springy, and I've tried MC and it tears and goes wrinkly. Any suggestions?