Satoshi Kamiya - Ancient Dragon

insaneorigami · Post by **insaneorigami** » October 22nd, 2009, 8:52 pm

bethnor wrote:also that it's not easy to get a piece of tissue-foil that is compeltely wrinkle free in the first place.

It is quite easy

. You just have to smooth the paper out

. The crumpling of the paper can be remedied by stopping after every few steps, and smoothing the paper

. Also, different people like different papers; I am one of the people who likes tissue foil. I have a friend who can't stand to even touch the stuff, and another who loves it to death

.

insaneorigami · Post by **insaneorigami** » October 22nd, 2009, 9:45 pm

Some pictures of my latest Ancient Dragon:

Sorry for the bad quality...

dude22 · Post by **dude22** » October 23rd, 2009, 3:39 am

nice dragon

...
ok im embarassed to say this but i need some help in steps 79-82

PLEASE help ....

Ragnorax · Post by **Ragnorax** » October 23rd, 2009, 4:11 am

dude22 wrote:nice dragon ...
ok im embarassed to say this but i need some help in steps 79-82
PLEASE help ....

Well you just need to open sink that along the fold indicated and then fold it over and squash it flat.. Its a fairly simple step. I dont know how else to explain it.

If you dont know how to make an open sink, check at the beginning of the book and it should have pictures showing an example of an open sink.

dude22 · Post by **dude22** » October 23rd, 2009, 5:32 am

i think i got it .. this is it right ?? i know its messy,

Adam · Post by **Adam** » October 23rd, 2009, 9:47 am

Looks pretty much okay, dude22

chesslo · Post by **chesslo** » October 28th, 2009, 9:23 am

Same, looks like you nailed it.

Aleburzyn · Post by **Aleburzyn** » November 12th, 2009, 4:42 pm

Hi all, I've browsed the entire thread and haven't found good answers to these questions:

step 73: do you open the front layers in the open sink?

http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/8442/12226000.jpg

step 75/86: let's suppose you do both sinks (front and back) at the same time, the polygon you'll be sinking will (in general) look like one of these two? which one?

http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/8108/sink.jpg

Thanks

Didée · Post by **Didée** » November 12th, 2009, 5:47 pm

step 73: yes, open all layers. The sink is "fully open". If you keep the front layers closed, it would be a closed sink.

step 75/86: like the 2nd shape you painted.

Exercise for 75/86:
- make birdbase
- open-sink the top triangle by (half height)
- crease the half-angle at the left & right corner
- now practice those sinks on that flap(s)

(edit) Like so:

Aleburzyn · Post by **Aleburzyn** » November 12th, 2009, 6:27 pm

Thanks for the quick answer!!!
By the way, for the record, step 103 sinks are the same.

bethnor · Post by **bethnor** » November 12th, 2009, 9:36 pm

while that idea to practice 75/86 is sound, the actual problem with those steps is that there is no way to open up the actual model the way you can with just a bird base. that's what makes those steps difficult, not the actual sinks.

Aleburzyn · Post by **Aleburzyn** » November 16th, 2009, 12:31 am

I don't understand what to do in step 180 with the "sink and squash", for the moment I have skipped that detail and it seems it isn't necessary, is it?

Didée · Post by **Didée** » November 16th, 2009, 1:27 pm

The sink/squash is necessary to put the head section "above" the leg section, i.e. to make it stand out "longer". When not done at all, then the head flap will be the same length as the leg flaps.

When you just pull the head flap while closing the structure, you have a 1:1:1 chance that ...

1) the squash will form naturally
2) something ~similar~ will form naturally
3) the paper will rrrr...ipppppp....

In case of doubt, you might try the following easy exercise. The flap arrangement is quite different to that of step#180, but the squash-move is basically the same. (Imagine the head-flap would be attached to the inner flap of this easy sequence.)

Just to give an idea of what's basically going on.

Ragnorax · Post by **Ragnorax** » November 17th, 2009, 1:11 am

I finished folding this model again, heres the result:

I still would like to better shape the model, but im ok with how it is.

lancealmekian · Post by **lancealmekian** » November 20th, 2009, 8:25 am

For shaping, I suggest you look Shuki Kato's profile over at flickr.com, he has an Ancient Dragon folded using tracing paper, and it looks uber awesome (that's where I got my inspiration to shape).

My version:

Side by side with a Bahamut 2.0

Both were folded using 80 sq cm Kraft Paper (tailors here use it for making dress patterns). It's strong and really thin, which allows for more detailed folds. For people who have trouble shaping the horns, I advice you use paper glue to shape it with, then blowdry it so it gets solid.

On a side note, whenever I ask people what they prefer between these two, they almost always pick Bahamut. I don't know why. Anyone ever thought about it too?