What have you folded lately?

[strolgen]

Tomoko Fuse's mask . I really like these but there are difficult to get the right proportion ...

Robert Lang's Treehopper

[Ben385]

Spook, designed by Andreas Najock. Folded by me from a 15cm square of kami.

[qtrollip]

Polar Bear
Completely closed-back.
From an uncut square, designed 26 December 2009.

Quentin

[origami_8]

That's a very peaceful model, great work Quentin! Lacking any visible unnecessary creases it captures a polar bear perfectly still containing lots of detail like the colour changed eyes and toes.

[Ragnorax]

ohhhhh wow i love the polar bear Quentin Those tiny color changes bring it to life

[steampunkgrrrl]

I feel really inadequate now.....

I folded a cube. ^_^

[origami_8]

Where's the picture of your cube? I'd love to see it.

[steampunkgrrrl]

It shall be uploaded tonight. ^_^

[foldymole]

Bust, from "3D Masks and Busts" by Eric Joisel.





A practice fold on copier paper that turned out quite nicely.

[fi-ori]

Dennis Walker's Five Intersecting Octahedra
60 units

[steampunkgrrrl]

The cubes:

[origami_8]

Thanks for showing your cubes, but somehow even though they are big in the middle of the picture they aren't well visible.
You may want to enhance your photos a bit.

Here are some things to consider when taking photos:
Make sure that the models are well lit without any shadows falling on them, be it from you or from surrounding objects. Maybe placing a desk lamp next to the model or placing it next to a window may help with the lighting, but avoid reflections from the flash.
Choose a non-distracting background like a big sheet of paper or a wall. Magazines are a no-no.
Place the models so that a big amount of them is visible. For the cubes a light turn so that the front, top and a side face is visible is a good angle. Placing the models on top of each other is most of the time no good idea apart from specially arranged scenes.
I recommend looking at various model pictures in this topic. You will find some that you like more and some that you like less. Try to find out why this is so and I don't speak about the model itself here but about the photo quality and the visibility of the model.
Many people make the mistake when taking pictures of Origami models to place the camera to near to the model. This often-times leads to sharp background and blurry model. It's better to place the model farther away from the camera and cut out the wanted area with a picture editing software afterwards (like for example IrfanView).

Looking forward to your next model photos

[insaneorigami]

Basically what Anna said . To make a pretty easy background for photographing, just take a sheet of white printer paper, and curve it against a wall, so that some of it is on the floor, and it is leaning against the wall. Place the model in the middle of the sheet, and photograph . You'll probably need a bigger sheet of paper for larger models, like Ryu Jin, or any other model that requires a large size model for small details, and for that, you could use posterboard, or something . The curve of the background is very nice against the model. Good luck with future photographing!

[PauliusOrigami]

I mostly like Unryu sheets as a background.

[Whitefly]

What is "Unryu"? paper?