Satoshi Kamiya - Mammuthus Primigenus
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- nickchartrand
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Satoshi Kamiya - Mammuthus Primigenus
i need help on step46 where the path splits which path do i take?
paper can be minipulated to do whatever you want as long as you have hands to fold.(Nick Chartrand)
- unknownfolder
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- origamimasterjared
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One path is easier to understand and follow, but more stressful on your paper: The closed sink method. If you are using very large paper it's not too bad though.
The other path is more difficult to understand if you've never performed a closed-sink in this way before. It's a lot easier to get lost doing it this way, but it's easier on the paper (if you get it right the first time).
The other path is more difficult to understand if you've never performed a closed-sink in this way before. It's a lot easier to get lost doing it this way, but it's easier on the paper (if you get it right the first time).
- nickchartrand
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imho, this is the hardest model in works of satoshi kamiya.
it's difficult to do step 46 neatly. i've done it multiple times before... but never as neatly as i'd like. ultimately, i've decided that route A is easier to yield a clean result. what i do is finish the sinking of he corner during step 56, when the model is open.
also, i feel step 69 is also difficult to do neatly.

this is the first satisfactory result i've gotten. even so, i had to reinforce the interior middle with tape to prevent splitting down the middle. this is actually a model which probably does benefit from being made from tissue foil.

it's easier doing all those steps with tant, but it conversely gets difficult at the end to get a satisfactory curl on the tusks, not to mention a color change (which would be easier with foil). i guess the only way would be some wet finishing with wires to hold the proper curl.
it's difficult to do step 46 neatly. i've done it multiple times before... but never as neatly as i'd like. ultimately, i've decided that route A is easier to yield a clean result. what i do is finish the sinking of he corner during step 56, when the model is open.
also, i feel step 69 is also difficult to do neatly.

this is the first satisfactory result i've gotten. even so, i had to reinforce the interior middle with tape to prevent splitting down the middle. this is actually a model which probably does benefit from being made from tissue foil.

it's easier doing all those steps with tant, but it conversely gets difficult at the end to get a satisfactory curl on the tusks, not to mention a color change (which would be easier with foil). i guess the only way would be some wet finishing with wires to hold the proper curl.
- dinogami
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To thin the tusks, I wet the paper, make the rabbit ear, and clamp it with tiny binder clips 'til dry. Then to make the curl, I again wet (lightly this time) most of the tusk (not the end near the trunk), put a binder clip on the very end of the tusk, curl the tusk by hand, then put the model upside-down on a shelf with the tusk sticking out over the edge of the shelf. The weight of the binder clip pulls the end of the tusk down and holds it in the curl 'til the paper dries again, at which time the curl remains in place.bethnor wrote:it's easier doing all those steps with tant, but it conversely gets difficult at the end to get a satisfactory curl on the tusks, not to mention a color change (which would be easier with foil). i guess the only way would be some wet finishing with wires to hold the proper curl.
- origamimasterjared
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Hmm…I thought this was one of the easier things in Works of Satoshi Kamiya…Granted none of it's that hard.
Step 69? It's just a simple crimp. Open that section out flat, then pleat it and close it up. Or, you can make an outside reverse fold where the valley is shown, and then inside reverse that whole thing along the mountain, while letting that long flap flip out. You can also do this step earlier, like around 53.
Step 69? It's just a simple crimp. Open that section out flat, then pleat it and close it up. Or, you can make an outside reverse fold where the valley is shown, and then inside reverse that whole thing along the mountain, while letting that long flap flip out. You can also do this step earlier, like around 53.
that's the problem, jared. perhaps i am doing something wrong, but when i follow the diagrams, there is a layer of paper inside that prevents you from opening the model flat. therefore there is not enough room to follow either of your suggestions. of course, one could simply just tear that layer (i have multiple times), it is not visible, but again, the perfectionist in me doesn't like that. doing the crimp at step 53 doesn't help because the layer is present by then.
basically, if i am following the diagrams correctly, there is no way to do that move symmetrically while opening the model flat without tearing paper. one could do it assymetrically or do my suggestion, and the changes will be hidden inside the model. this is what i'm talking about

i see now though that you can make this layer temporarily go away by pulling the head forward, which makes it easier to lay the model out flat. again, the layers are all hidden, so it probably doesn't matter how neat one makes it, but i think most of us here are somewhat perfectionist by nature.

basically, if i am following the diagrams correctly, there is no way to do that move symmetrically while opening the model flat without tearing paper. one could do it assymetrically or do my suggestion, and the changes will be hidden inside the model. this is what i'm talking about

i see now though that you can make this layer temporarily go away by pulling the head forward, which makes it easier to lay the model out flat. again, the layers are all hidden, so it probably doesn't matter how neat one makes it, but i think most of us here are somewhat perfectionist by nature.

- origamimasterjared
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You should be able to open it up just enough to do it. Here's my attempt at a quick webcam video. I used a little square of kraft paper for a quick fold.
<embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377" bgcolor="#000000" allowfullscreen="true" flashvars="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=df8ef5f2e8&photo_id=4919446528" height="300" width="400"></embed>
And here's my finished one.

<embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377" bgcolor="#000000" allowfullscreen="true" flashvars="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=df8ef5f2e8&photo_id=4919446528" height="300" width="400"></embed>
And here's my finished one.

I concur, the folding sequence is very straight forward, though the closed sink can be slightly aggravating.origamimasterjared wrote:Hmm…I thought this was one of the easier things in Works of Satoshi Kamiya…
Dinogami, could you further clarify your method of curving the tusks? I'm afraid I don't really understand how you do it and it would be nice to know an easy method to make curves stay in place.
i guess i tend to define difficulty by the hardest step in a model. so for me, doing step 46 neatly is harder than anything else in that entire book, thus making this model harder than anything else in the book. i guess part of it is just me being nitpicky. even with my final products, you can sort of tell that the sink was not entirely neat, and is a little, well, smushed inside. i know you can't really see the smushing, but it bugs me.Adam wrote: I concur, the folding sequence is very straight forward, though the closed sink can be slightly aggravating.
similarly, that's why i think a lot of the models in origami insects and their kin are harder than anything in works of satoshi kamiya. i.e., it's hard to do that one step in the praying mantis without ripping paper, it's hard to do that in and out sink for the paper wasp if you close the abdomen, etc., etc...