best gsm for origami?

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Post by angrydemon »

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Jonnycakes
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Post by Jonnycakes »

I only know about A4 paper through origami :lol: Even so, I am still unclear as to what the dimensions of A4 are. I wish we (the US) would stop being stubborn and switch to metric...
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Post by origami_8 »

Down this page there is a table of all A-formats giving there sizes in cm and inches:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_size
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Post by angrydemon »

I still find it amusing that America, the richest country on the planet, is still stuck in the stone age and refuses to adopt the metric system. Here's a test, which one is simpler?

Metric system:
10 millimeters=1 centimeter
10 centimeters=1 decimeter
10 decimeters= 1 meter
10 meters= 1 decameter
10 decameter= 1 hectometer
10 hectometer= kilometer

U.S customary units:
12 inches= 1 foot
3 feet= 1 yard
1 mile= 5280 feet??
And it doesn't stop there. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_Sta ... mary_units
You might want to drink some coffee before reading this.
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Post by JeffNYC »

Notwithstanding the debate of A4 vs. U.S. letter, what gsm should I target for buying paper online? I'm working through intermediate/complex models now (animals, insects, etc.). I've been working with one-sided "origami" paper (precut from a box kit and daily calendar set), but it is not thin enough for some of these models.

For kozo (mulberry) or lokta, is 40-45 gsm about right? Or is that too thin to work with? Others here suggested gluing two pieces of 20 gsm tissue paper together, so that seems right. Or is 60 gsm better? (I figure 80 is too thick). Couldn't find much more on weight here, so thought I'd renew this topic for more definitive advice. I've been looking at handmade-papers.us, any other recommended sites that people used?

Thanks.
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Post by origami_8 »

For complex insects and the like thinner paper is always better, so I recommend 40gsm or less. On handmade papers there is often the problem that the fibres aren't distributed equal through the whole paper but that some parts are incredible thick while others are nearly not there at all. This can lead to problems and should be taken into account.
Other handmade papers are very soft and don't hold a Crease, so backcoating with Methyl Cellulose is necessary to make them even foldable.
A handmade paper that worked very nice for me without backcoating is Korean Hanji (http://www.jongienara.com/ or http://www.origami-cdo.it/ospiti/magazz ... rrello.asp).
I'd still recommend glueing two pieces of tissue paper together with Methyl Cellulose. This paper is cheap, easy to produce and has the best folding abilities. You can also wet shape details in the end, allowing for thinner appendages.
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Post by HankSimon »

It is always worthwhile to contact someone at Origamido.com. They may respond to email, but they always can help via telephone.

If you tell them what type of model you are working on - and they may have folded it themselves - then they can tell you if they have appropriate paper on hand.


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GigaCube1194
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paper weight

Post by GigaCube1194 »

In US units, I've found that 32lb paper is the thickest that can be folded comfortably. (32lb paper is somewhat like scrapbooking paper, a bit thicker than normal copy paper)

However, you might want to go for larger, thinner paper for complex models. Paper with cardstock-like thickness is best used for modular origami that may have weak connections.
Jonnycakes wrote:I only know about A4 paper through origami :lol: Even so, I am still unclear as to what the dimensions of A4 are. I wish we (the US) would stop being stubborn and switch to metric...
A4 paper, which is 8.5x11 inches in the US system, is equivalent to 21.6x28 centimeters.


Moderator comment: merged double post, please use the edit button.
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origami_8
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Post by origami_8 »

Not quite A4 is 21.0 × 29.7 cm or 8.3 × 11.7 inch.
Letter is 8.5 × 11 inch or 21.6 × 27.9 cm.
It may be not much of a difference but when folding a model that was optimized for one of them you might not be able to get an equal result with the other one.
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Post by TheRealChris »

a DIN A sized paper has the relation 1 to 1.414
using this, you can make your own DIN A sized paper from your rectangle.
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Post by origami_8 »

That's true but DIN A4 is defined with the dimensions I wrote above. Using A4 paper and not just simply an DIN A formatted paper is often needed when folding for example CD cases, because otherwise the CD won't fit inside.
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Post by JeffNYC »

origami_8 wrote: I'd still recommend glueing two pieces of tissue paper together with Methyl Cellulose. This paper is cheap, easy to produce and has the best folding abilities. You can also wet shape details in the end, allowing for thinner appendages.
I've seen you mention this in other threads, what kind of tissue paper? Wood, mulberry, other? "Best folding abilities" has me interested in this.
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Post by origami_8 »

The kind of tissue paper that you can get in every office store or near the gift paper in bigger stores. The cheap stuff that you buy for children to play with (Shop). One layer alone is crap and has very bad folding abilities, but once you've glued the two layers together, the paper becomes strong, easy to fold with, doesn't rip and is still very thin.
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Post by Jonnycakes »

Lokta, Hanji, Unryu, Washi, Gampi, and other atrisan papers (make sure they don't have fiber or bark inserts) tend to work well. The gsm you want depends on the model you are folding. I have used Canson mi-teintes (I think 150gsm) to fold Kawasaki roses, which works well since the rose has so few layers. Complex insects require very thin paper (I have heard 20gsm or less recommended for them), but simpler designs can be folded well from thicker paper. I believe kami is about 60gsm, which is a good thickness that works well for a lot of things. If you are folding more complex, go thinner, or simpler, go thinner.
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