Hi
Ok for quite a while Ive been working on this design. I got the idea after folding Robert Lang's sea urchin which helped make the 6 legs. Ive named the model a "Longhorn Crab Beetle", it is a fictional species and I also made up the name.
The diagrams also took me a while to make ( ive only diagrammed a few models).
Anyway, it is now on my website and If anybody has the time I would be interested to hear feedback/ corrections (on the diagrams) / opinions etc.
The diagrams were made with serif draw plus and are now in pdf. format. THe PDF file is quite big so wait a while for it to load up.
There are more details on the design and pictures on the website. you can find the diagrams in the diagrams section > then drawn diagrams > then insects > then longhorn crab beetle.
THE WEBSITE MAIN PAGE
http://www.origamiinteractive.com
Direct to diagrams page
http://www.origamiinteractive.com/downl ... Beetle.PDF
Thanks very much
Edit* I tried to put some pics in but couldnt get it to work.
My latest design (diagrams available)
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origamimasterjared
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May want to move this to the Diagrams forum...
The PDF I downloaded had a bunch of photos in it...
Well, this model is much better than your "Millipede" (Centipede--Millipedes have two legs per segment)
Why did you form those two interior flap in the abdomen, but not use them?
The diagrams look pretty good for the most part. But here are a few suggestions:
Your big hollow arrows are unwieldy. Make them smaller.
Make all the text (including that within the diagram) uniform.
It's hard to tell the difference between the mountain (dash-dot) and valley. If you can, try to make it dash-dot-dot. (You may not be able to. This is a standard line style in Freehand, but may not be in Serif) Try to keep all mountain or valley folds of uniform thickness.
Try not to do multiple things within one step. That was common for hand-drawn diagrams, but there is no reason to do that in computerized ones, as you don't have to redraw the same picture over again.
And for individual steps:
1) Don't say "Make an 8x8 grid". Show in a sequence of steps how to achieve the 8x8 grid.
13) You really should show what this step looks like before unfolding. (But this isn't totally necessary.)
15) You're missing a line...There should be a vertical paper edge at the top. Also, since this is a 3-D step, do something like curve the bottom. (You could probably just draw a white oval to accomplish this)
21) You need precreases for this.
26) You're missing a crease.
27-28 ) Enlarge.
33) A better way to show this step is to fold over the edge, and then show how to do the sink.
34-45) After Step 33 your diagrams became a bit messy. Make sure you spell everything correctly, and capitalize the first word of each direction. (or at least be consistent)
42) Show what the model looks like after this step. Also, you're missing a flip model over symbol.
Nice job.
The PDF I downloaded had a bunch of photos in it...
Well, this model is much better than your "Millipede" (Centipede--Millipedes have two legs per segment)
Why did you form those two interior flap in the abdomen, but not use them?
The diagrams look pretty good for the most part. But here are a few suggestions:
Your big hollow arrows are unwieldy. Make them smaller.
Make all the text (including that within the diagram) uniform.
It's hard to tell the difference between the mountain (dash-dot) and valley. If you can, try to make it dash-dot-dot. (You may not be able to. This is a standard line style in Freehand, but may not be in Serif) Try to keep all mountain or valley folds of uniform thickness.
Try not to do multiple things within one step. That was common for hand-drawn diagrams, but there is no reason to do that in computerized ones, as you don't have to redraw the same picture over again.
And for individual steps:
1) Don't say "Make an 8x8 grid". Show in a sequence of steps how to achieve the 8x8 grid.
13) You really should show what this step looks like before unfolding. (But this isn't totally necessary.)
15) You're missing a line...There should be a vertical paper edge at the top. Also, since this is a 3-D step, do something like curve the bottom. (You could probably just draw a white oval to accomplish this)
21) You need precreases for this.
26) You're missing a crease.
27-28 ) Enlarge.
33) A better way to show this step is to fold over the edge, and then show how to do the sink.
34-45) After Step 33 your diagrams became a bit messy. Make sure you spell everything correctly, and capitalize the first word of each direction. (or at least be consistent)
42) Show what the model looks like after this step. Also, you're missing a flip model over symbol.
Nice job.
Last edited by origamimasterjared on August 23rd, 2005, 10:04 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Thanks very much all round- especially for pointing out some of the mistakes in the diagrams.
A few other questions/ points
SO is it considered better not to put any "real" images photos into diagrams like the ones at th beginning and end, I included the ones at the end so that you could see how to do all the sculpty bits.
In response to origamimasterjared I agree with all of your points. I thought the hollow arrows were a bit big aswell I should really change them, same goes for the text.
Also Serif draw plus seems to make it incredibly difficult to draw any form of a curved line or curved shape. This is why the 3d steps dont always have the right curve and why there is no diagram of the final product.
The two interior flaps in the abdomen were at first going to become wings but i found some of the other folds kinda locked them in place. You can slighlty pull them out to make it look like they are in aresting position (you can see this in the top right pic of the last page.)
I also agree there are some problems with the diagramming of steps 26- 28?
[/quote]Well, this model is much better than your "Millipede"[quote]
Yeah, the millipede diagrams were a bit of a disaster, i made them very quickly and didnt check them. Also I made the diagrams with a very poor piece of software which made them almost impossible to follow.
The best type of paper for the beetle model is probably tissue foil, although for the one in all the pictures i used two pieces of tissue paper stuck together with dilute pva glue, then I "wet folded" the final product with a very diluted pva glue mix which made it look shiny like an insect.
Thanks to you all for trying the model, I would be very interested to see any pictures of the finsihed models you managed/manage to make.
Thanks very much for speedy response and feedback.
A few other questions/ points
SO is it considered better not to put any "real" images photos into diagrams like the ones at th beginning and end, I included the ones at the end so that you could see how to do all the sculpty bits.
In response to origamimasterjared I agree with all of your points. I thought the hollow arrows were a bit big aswell I should really change them, same goes for the text.
Also Serif draw plus seems to make it incredibly difficult to draw any form of a curved line or curved shape. This is why the 3d steps dont always have the right curve and why there is no diagram of the final product.
The two interior flaps in the abdomen were at first going to become wings but i found some of the other folds kinda locked them in place. You can slighlty pull them out to make it look like they are in aresting position (you can see this in the top right pic of the last page.)
I also agree there are some problems with the diagramming of steps 26- 28?
[/quote]Well, this model is much better than your "Millipede"[quote]
Yeah, the millipede diagrams were a bit of a disaster, i made them very quickly and didnt check them. Also I made the diagrams with a very poor piece of software which made them almost impossible to follow.
The best type of paper for the beetle model is probably tissue foil, although for the one in all the pictures i used two pieces of tissue paper stuck together with dilute pva glue, then I "wet folded" the final product with a very diluted pva glue mix which made it look shiny like an insect.
Thanks to you all for trying the model, I would be very interested to see any pictures of the finsihed models you managed/manage to make.
Thanks very much for speedy response and feedback.
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origamimasterjared
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It's a little messy, but this should be the crease pattern you need...
[img]http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/3844 ... ncp1oj.jpg[/img]
Note that instead of using those short flaps to make the last set of legs, you could use the two interior points formed by the two rightmost bird bases and the two leftmost bird bases... These flaps are the same length as the other two sets of legs.
[img]http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/3844 ... ncp1oj.jpg[/img]
Note that instead of using those short flaps to make the last set of legs, you could use the two interior points formed by the two rightmost bird bases and the two leftmost bird bases... These flaps are the same length as the other two sets of legs.
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platypusguy
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Wow thanks very much for the drawing of the crease pattern i wouldn't have been able to drawone at all.
The idea of using the two flaps in the left and rightmost brid bases as the back legs sounds like a good idea I'll give that a try thanks very much.
I guess the reason why there are a few unused flaps is I didnt know what else i could put into the model, it has long horns, a head with horns, 6 legsetc. the only thing i can think of is trying to create some wings.
Thanks
The idea of using the two flaps in the left and rightmost brid bases as the back legs sounds like a good idea I'll give that a try thanks very much.
I guess the reason why there are a few unused flaps is I didnt know what else i could put into the model, it has long horns, a head with horns, 6 legsetc. the only thing i can think of is trying to create some wings.
Thanks
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origamimasterjared
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I used Macromedia Freehand (MX).
The Snap-to, and constrain features,along with knowing how to bisect a line, make crease pattern drawing a snap.
And (as with all Macromedia products) Freehand is much cheaper if you get the educational version. (And as far as I know comes with all the same features.)
The Snap-to, and constrain features,along with knowing how to bisect a line, make crease pattern drawing a snap.
And (as with all Macromedia products) Freehand is much cheaper if you get the educational version. (And as far as I know comes with all the same features.)
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origamimasterjared
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If you know the angle, then you can just constrain to that angle, ie, 22.5, 11.25, 15, 30, 60, etc.
However, if the angle is unknown, it is a bit more complicated...
I learned how to do this from Jason...
You're going to have to perform a construction similar to the compass-and-straightedge ones you did in geometry class...
Make sure you have snap-to-point and snap-to-object turned on.
To bisect an unknown angle what you can do is draw a circle, go up to the View menu and select Keyline. This will mark the center of the circle. Now move the circle so that the center mark is on the corner of the angle. (You should probably up the magnification to 400% or 800%) The circle should cross the angle at two points. Draw a line connecting these two points. Now perpendicularly bisect this line. To do so, simply clone the line and rotate it 90 degrees. It will rotate about its center. Finally, extend this line to the corner of the angle, and you have your angle bisector.
The process looks like this:
However, if the angle is unknown, it is a bit more complicated...
I learned how to do this from Jason...
You're going to have to perform a construction similar to the compass-and-straightedge ones you did in geometry class...
Make sure you have snap-to-point and snap-to-object turned on.
To bisect an unknown angle what you can do is draw a circle, go up to the View menu and select Keyline. This will mark the center of the circle. Now move the circle so that the center mark is on the corner of the angle. (You should probably up the magnification to 400% or 800%) The circle should cross the angle at two points. Draw a line connecting these two points. Now perpendicularly bisect this line. To do so, simply clone the line and rotate it 90 degrees. It will rotate about its center. Finally, extend this line to the corner of the angle, and you have your angle bisector.
The process looks like this:
Last edited by origamimasterjared on August 24th, 2005, 9:02 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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origamimasterjared
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By the way Tim, you could almost call your model a Pseudoscorpion
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TheRealChris
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origamimasterjared
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In freehand there is an even simpler way....
Choose the circle tool, and put the pointer on the angle (where the two rays cross). click but don't move the mouse. Hold down alt (or the Mac equivalent - option or something), hold down shift, and draw a circle. This will draw a circle centered on the angle. Proceed as per Jared's method.
The real difficulties with Freehand, which no one, AFAIK, has a good method for are:
(a) reflecting about a line at a non-integral angle (when you reflect about a line, it reflects about the nearest integral angle)
(b) drawing axiom 6 (but it's hardly used so no biggy).
Choose the circle tool, and put the pointer on the angle (where the two rays cross). click but don't move the mouse. Hold down alt (or the Mac equivalent - option or something), hold down shift, and draw a circle. This will draw a circle centered on the angle. Proceed as per Jared's method.
The real difficulties with Freehand, which no one, AFAIK, has a good method for are:
(a) reflecting about a line at a non-integral angle (when you reflect about a line, it reflects about the nearest integral angle)
(b) drawing axiom 6 (but it's hardly used so no biggy).