The d20 origami challenge!

Friendly design and folding competitions.

Postby Daydreamer » April 28th, 2006, 7:24 pm

wolf wrote:Do you plan to stuff more paper into the wings?

I've actually planned to add another graft to get a longer tail and legs. That will give me more paper for the wings at the same time. I also need to optimize the basic CP a bit so that it is foldable without the need of 100 reference points.
So long and keep folding ^_^
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Postby Fishgoth » April 28th, 2006, 10:57 pm

Extra groovy, especially F. S. M.

An inspiration to pastafarians everywhere!
I once set up an origami PLC. But the business folded.
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Postby wolf » April 29th, 2006, 2:37 am

Daydreamer wrote:I've actually planned to add another graft to get a longer tail and legs.

Claws too....mmmm, must have claws. :D
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Postby wolf » April 29th, 2006, 2:51 am

Kaimon wrote:the paper seems so be quite good, too...would you tell me which kind of paper you used for the white dragon?...and how do you keep the layers together?

Thanks!

That dragon uses Thai Saa:
http://www.umthai.com/detail.php?ID_Pro=01262900001
The paper is excellent, but the larger rice stalks got very very annoying, especially when they run across a crease. After resizing with MC, the paper retained creases extremely well, so the layers stayed together without requiring too much more MC.

The layers do slowly come apart if you leave it out in ambient air though, due to the MC absorbing moisture, so the model had to be microwaved once in a while. I got tired of doing that eventually, so I started using a waterproof acrylic varnish to coat finished models. That keeps the water out so I've had no more trouble with wet-unfolding. One side effect is that it gives it that shiny, ceramic look.
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Postby steyen » April 30th, 2006, 6:24 pm

wolf,what is the meaning of goofed?
how do you design your models?by packing circles or treemaker?
thanks!i would like to join d20 too
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Postby Daydreamer » April 30th, 2006, 11:19 pm

steyen wrote:by packing circles or treemaker?

Actually Treemaker does the computational work of packing circles for you :-)
So long and keep folding ^_^
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Postby wolf » May 1st, 2006, 1:25 am

steyen wrote:wolf,what is the meaning of goofed?

Goofed or gooped? Look here if it's the latter:
http://snkhan.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1304

steyen wrote:how do you design your models?by packing circles or treemaker?

Using the tried and tested pencil and paper method. :D
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Postby steyen » May 1st, 2006, 1:55 am

=) thanks

Using the tried and tested pencil and paper method.

its interesting.can you elaborate more about it?i also tried designing using pencil and paper method but i find it hard to allocate portions of paper for flaps because the circle packing is difficult.(do you draw&pack circles during designing anyway?)

thanks very much wolf
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Postby Daydreamer » May 1st, 2006, 2:25 am

Griever 1.5 from 25cm x 25cm Kami
Image

Even though it looks almost the same from the outside, I actually changed the CP a lot. The original Treemaker CP had many "uneven" angles and therefore I printed the CP for folding it. I rearranged the CP manually so that I got nice angles and straight lines which enabled me to fold it from something else than printer paper. Actually the CP as it is now is very much based on a simple fishbase....
The CP needs a few more adjustments (longer legs especially since they are very stumpy now....) and then I'll try it with some foil to be able to shape it better :)
So long and keep folding ^_^
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A theoretical origami design (LONG POST WARNING!)

Postby wolf » May 1st, 2006, 8:51 am

steyen wrote:its interesting.can you elaborate more about it?

I think the easiest way to answer this is just to give an example of how it's done. Let's say we want to try and come up with a griever. The first step is to translate the thing into its tree figure:

Image

What I do is to work on bits of it at a time. One subunit would be the arm with the spikes. This is relatively straightforward:
    5 1-unit flaps for the fingers
    a 3-unit river for the forearm
    a 4-unit and two 2-unit flaps for the spurs
    a 4-unit river for the upper arm.
Next would be the head. The horns are the most distinctive feature, so naturally we'll need to capture that. One nice addition would be the mane. With this in mind, here's what the head sub-tree contains:
    5 2-unit flaps for the horns
    a 2 unit-flap for the face
    a 4-unit flap for the front mane
    a 4-unit flap for the rear mane
    a 2-unit river for the neck.
The last bit would be the legs and tail:
    5 1-unit flaps for the toes
    a 7-unit river for the leg
    a 6-unit flap for the tail.
The complete tree figure above does not show two things - the wings and the torso flaps. These are left out because they do not have complicated structures (for this version of the design, that is). The assignment of the unit lengths is harder to explain - it doesn't just depend on what the proportions are on the figure you're trying to design, but also on the final stance of the model. Things like elbow joints, knees, take up paper here and there, and it's hard to quantify. In short, it boils down to experience.

So now that we've got all these bits, we'll just need to put it together into a square:

Image

Note how nicely it fits into a 48x48 grid? :) That's part of the experience I mentioned earlier. At this point, all you need to do is to fill out the creases. The most straightforward method would be to just use 45/90 degree box pleats:

Image

If you want to use the 22.5/45/90 geometry, this can be done as well - Connect the centres of the squares, shift everything around until it fits. How this is done, is again one of those experience things.

All this can be done with a pencil and a pad of graph paper, but since I don't have a scanner, I did it on a cad program instead for easy upload.

So there you go, a theoretical design for a griever. Anyone up for actually folding it? :D A 48x48 grid isn't so bad for a box pleat (Hojyo Takashi's Thunder God uses 64x64) - fold the square in thirds, half to get 6ths, then 12ths, then 24ths, then 48ths.
Last edited by wolf on May 3rd, 2006, 3:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby thedeadsmellbad » May 1st, 2006, 9:10 am

Very cool wolf, I'm going to meditate on this.
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Postby polop » May 1st, 2006, 5:48 pm

Im trying to do this method but it is very hard ( square packing I think it is called) *slightly off topic* do you do circle packing, Im able to make them but I cannot turn it into a model.
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Postby wolf » May 2nd, 2006, 12:06 am

polop wrote:Im trying to do this method but it is very hard ( square packing I think it is called) *slightly off topic* do you do circle packing, Im able to make them but I cannot turn it into a model.

It's conceptually the same as circle packing, just less efficient.
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Postby Daydreamer » May 2nd, 2006, 3:37 pm

polop wrote:I'm able to make them but I cannot turn it into a model.

Well, that's one of the problems with CPs in general (no matter if you designed them yourself or are trying to fold someone else's). After you have finally managed to collapse the CP into a base there is still a lot of designing involved to actually turn the base into the intended model.
On the other hand this is also a very nice thing, because you can use the same CP to make all kinds of different models :-)
So long and keep folding ^_^
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Postby wolf » May 2nd, 2006, 3:44 pm

Daydreamer wrote:Well, that's one of the problems with CPs in general (no matter if you designed them yourself or are trying to fold someone else's). After you have finally managed to collapse the CP into a base there is still a lot of designing involved to actually turn the base into the intended model.

Yep, that's generally true. A model takes 15 minutes to design, collapsing the CP into the base takes 30 minutes, and putting the finishing touches takes a week, at least.

The science of folding is all in the first 15 minutes, the craft of folding is in the next 30, and the art of folding is in the week or so it takes to produce a complete model. :D
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