MC - Methyl Cellulose

zxop9 · Post by **zxop9** » September 18th, 2008, 1:04 am

thats smart, thanks a lot

floopate · Post by **floopate** » September 18th, 2008, 6:30 am

thats what works for me too.. i use a small brush to just dampen the areas i wanna work with. i usually fold dry then dampen the parts i need extra stiffness and fluidity with mc.

OrigamiGianluca · September 19th, 2008, 11:07 am

Excuse for the (maybe stupid) question, but what are the advantages in doing paper with that technique?

Is it only to have large sheets, or is there anything more?

Just to understand

Thanks.

Post by **origami_8** » September 19th, 2008, 1:52 pm

The paper is incredible thin, folds like a dream and shapes well especially when wet shaped in the end.

OrigamiGianluca · September 19th, 2008, 2:07 pm

But if you stick two (or more) sheets one over the other how can the final result be so thin as you say?

Would it not be possible to use direclty a single sheet of that paper?

Excuse me for all those questions, but experiments with paper is one of the aspects Id probably like more in origami. And this technique is new and very interesting for me

By the way, do you have any link other links about?

Another question: is it strong?

OkOk, I'll stop the question and I'll use the search botton

Post by **TheRealChris** » September 19th, 2008, 2:12 pm

shapes well especially when wet shaped in the end.

I made the exactly opposite experience. although its good to fold and doesn't rip it's crap to shape (even when wet).

Post by **origami_8** » September 19th, 2008, 2:13 pm

Sure you could use only one sheet, but it is very hard to fold with a single sheet of tissue paper and it also rips easily. The feeling of the two sheets glued together with MC is completely different to that. If you like experimenting with paper just try it out. The things you need to do so aren't expensive so a failed attempt doesn't hurt much.

OrigamiGianluca · September 19th, 2008, 2:17 pm

A good result is priceless

I'll surely try

thanks

zxop9 · Post by **zxop9** » September 19th, 2008, 10:30 pm

first thing i folded from my mc treated tissue was kamiyas ancient dragon. it folds way easier then tissue foil and sinks are done a lot faster(paper reverses on creases). i found the paper was a lot more durable then tissue foil, usually the areas with lots of folds get a little hole in them but not with mc. it took my about 4 days to wet fold it to a point where it looked good, and it looks a lot better then anything i've done with tissue foil. i'd provide a picture but my crap camera can't seem to take one without bluring it up

OrigamiGianluca · September 21st, 2008, 3:45 pm

I'd like to say thank you to this topic (and obviously to anyone hwo has taken part to), because it makes me discover the tissue paper.

I've found a real new world!

With tissue paper (just a single sheet no wet or MC) I've been able to do an old design (basically an iterative triple blinz on a frog base) that I've left in drawer because the paper I was used to fold was too thick, or too weak.

Here the result!
Go with tissue paper!

HERE some other photos

Mars · Post by **Mars** » September 21st, 2008, 3:51 pm

I've heard you can make the Ancient Dragon by Satoshi Kamiya with tissue paper too!

OrigamiGianluca · September 21st, 2008, 4:05 pm

I'd like very much to be able to do it, but actually CPs are not my "best friends"

I've to study a little more on them.

Post by **origami_8** » September 21st, 2008, 4:08 pm

There are diagrams in Satoshi Kamiya's Book for this model.

angrydemon · Post by **angrydemon** » September 21st, 2008, 4:24 pm

How did you design models without understanding crease patterns? I was totally clueless before that! Now I always start my designs off with their crease patterns. In fact, none of them have a definite folding sequence that can be diagrammed. I just fold out all the lines and collapse it...

OrigamiGianluca · September 21st, 2008, 4:39 pm

origami_8 wrote:There are diagrams in Satoshi Kamiya's Book for this model.

I really thought that even in the book those authors use CP

Thanks for the information.

angrydemon wrote:How did you design models without understanding crease patterns?

My origami learning path was totally based on the traditional japanese models, and all my own models mostly belongs to the famous bird base, or frog base ect.
So usually whae I start folding I 'm not so sure about the final result. Indeed sometime I find myself in stack.
For example for the above Sea Urchin, I didn't plan of it.
I was sure that a triple blinz would have given a 25 pointed base, but I couldn't be sure that this base would have been usefull.

I find that this way of creating model is more romantic (even if I like very much the connection between origami and math

)