MC - Methyl Cellulose
- OrigamiGianluca
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- OrigamiGianluca
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But if you stick two (or more) sheets one over the other how can the final result be so thin as you say?
Would it not be possible to use direclty a single sheet of that paper?
Excuse me for all those questions, but experiments with paper is one of the aspects Id probably like more in origami. And this technique is new and very interesting for me
By the way, do you have any link other links about?
Another question: is it strong?
OkOk, I'll stop the question and I'll use the search botton
Would it not be possible to use direclty a single sheet of that paper?
Excuse me for all those questions, but experiments with paper is one of the aspects Id probably like more in origami. And this technique is new and very interesting for me
By the way, do you have any link other links about?
Another question: is it strong?
OkOk, I'll stop the question and I'll use the search botton
Last edited by OrigamiGianluca on September 19th, 2008, 2:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Sure you could use only one sheet, but it is very hard to fold with a single sheet of tissue paper and it also rips easily. The feeling of the two sheets glued together with MC is completely different to that. If you like experimenting with paper just try it out. The things you need to do so aren't expensive so a failed attempt doesn't hurt much.
- OrigamiGianluca
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first thing i folded from my mc treated tissue was kamiyas ancient dragon. it folds way easier then tissue foil and sinks are done a lot faster(paper reverses on creases). i found the paper was a lot more durable then tissue foil, usually the areas with lots of folds get a little hole in them but not with mc. it took my about 4 days to wet fold it to a point where it looked good, and it looks a lot better then anything i've done with tissue foil. i'd provide a picture but my crap camera can't seem to take one without bluring it up
- OrigamiGianluca
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I'd like to say thank you to this topic (and obviously to anyone hwo has taken part to), because it makes me discover the tissue paper.
I've found a real new world!
With tissue paper (just a single sheet no wet or MC) I've been able to do an old design (basically an iterative triple blinz on a frog base) that I've left in drawer because the paper I was used to fold was too thick, or too weak.
Here the result!
Go with tissue paper!
HERE some other photos
I've found a real new world!
With tissue paper (just a single sheet no wet or MC) I've been able to do an old design (basically an iterative triple blinz on a frog base) that I've left in drawer because the paper I was used to fold was too thick, or too weak.
Here the result!
Go with tissue paper!
HERE some other photos
- OrigamiGianluca
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- angrydemon
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How did you design models without understanding crease patterns? I was totally clueless before that! Now I always start my designs off with their crease patterns. In fact, none of them have a definite folding sequence that can be diagrammed. I just fold out all the lines and collapse it...
I've fallen down, and I can't get up.
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- OrigamiGianluca
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I really thought that even in the book those authors use CPorigami_8 wrote:There are diagrams in Satoshi Kamiya's Book for this model.
Thanks for the information.
My origami learning path was totally based on the traditional japanese models, and all my own models mostly belongs to the famous bird base, or frog base ect.angrydemon wrote:How did you design models without understanding crease patterns?
So usually whae I start folding I 'm not so sure about the final result. Indeed sometime I find myself in stack.
For example for the above Sea Urchin, I didn't plan of it.
I was sure that a triple blinz would have given a 25 pointed base, but I couldn't be sure that this base would have been usefull.
I find that this way of creating model is more romantic (even if I like very much the connection between origami and math )