Crease Pattern FAQ

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Re: Crease Pattern FAQ

Postby Baltorigamist » July 11th, 2014, 4:40 pm

There's nothing wrong with that. It takes practice to solve even a simple CP.
Is your issue with reading them?
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Re: Crease Pattern FAQ

Postby CurlyCrescnt86 » September 14th, 2014, 10:36 pm

I dont get how you fold the circles in cps, or how they help.
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Re: Crease Pattern FAQ

Postby Kabuntan » September 15th, 2014, 12:23 am

You don't fold the circles, it is only useful during the design phase, when working from "stick figures" (it is something like circle radius ≡ flap length, but the CP experts could tell you more).
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Re: Crease Pattern FAQ

Postby origamifan11 » September 17th, 2014, 4:14 am

The circle are used in the design process of "circle packing". The circles represent flaps, the centre the top of the flap, the radius is how long the flap is, and the circumference is the end of the flap. The reason why circles are used is because as you thin a flap and fold it down, then unfold, you will see a 2D shape appear. As the flap becomes thinner, the shape that you will see appears more and more similar to a circle. This is gone over in much more detail in ODS.
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Re: Crease Pattern FAQ

Postby Malleon » January 11th, 2015, 1:06 pm

Hi, I've been trying to collapse some boxpleated CPs, but I don't know how to form middle flaps neatly. This would've been explained in detail in Gerwin Sturm's BP guide part 5, which doesn't exist yet. Because of that, middle flaps kills me everytime. Does anyone know how to form these middle flaps neatly?
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Re: Crease Pattern FAQ

Postby Baltorigamist » January 11th, 2015, 3:39 pm

All I can say is to take your time and fold accurately. Most middle flaps aren't that difficult to fold out once you're used to it, but anything longer than a few units can be really frustrating.
Is there a particular model you're having trouble with? There are a couple different ways of folding middle flaps, and it really depends on the location of the flap in the model:

1) Collapse a waterbomb base at the center of the flap and sink or reverse-fold the layers in and out. This is the easiest method IMO, and it's best done with flaps near the center or at the beginning of a collapse.
2) Gently ease the layers together, starting from the middle of the flap. This is a little harder.
3) Fold out one side as you would an edge flap, pleating the layers on the other side of the middle flap. Then squash and unsink the pleated layers, Elias-stretching them until you have the flap the correct length. This is the hardest method I can think of, but it can be really useful when a flap is locked inside another.
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Re: Crease Pattern FAQ

Postby Malleon » January 11th, 2015, 11:23 pm

Baltorigamist wrote:All I can say is to take your time and fold accurately. Most middle flaps aren't that difficult to fold out once you're used to it, but anything longer than a few units can be really frustrating.
Is there a particular model you're having trouble with? There are a couple different ways of folding middle flaps, and it really depends on the location of the flap in the model:

1) Collapse a waterbomb base at the center of the flap and sink or reverse-fold the layers in and out. This is the easiest method IMO, and it's best done with flaps near the center or at the beginning of a collapse.
2) Gently ease the layers together, starting from the middle of the flap. This is a little harder.
3) Fold out one side as you would an edge flap, pleating the layers on the other side of the middle flap. Then squash and unsink the pleated layers, Elias-stretching them until you have the flap the correct length. This is the hardest method I can think of, but it can be really useful when a flap is locked inside another.


Is number 3 like doing Brian Chan's Water Dragon's legs?

I'm having trouble with Petr Stuchly's Fiddler Crab, but before this I was having trouble with Lang's Aedes aegypti as well. Here's what I'm talking about: https://www.flickr.com/photos/petr-stuchly/4666289849

See that group of 6 middle flaps at the top? It makes me want to pull my hair off.
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Re: Crease Pattern FAQ

Postby Baltorigamist » January 12th, 2015, 12:00 am

I haven't seen the diagrams for that model, only the CP, but I imagine it is.

That crab is a model where it looks like you'll have to use method 3. Personally, I would fold the two sets of flaps on the sides first and then collapse those into the two central flaps.
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Re: Crease Pattern FAQ

Postby jeffng » April 6th, 2017, 2:21 am

Many complex CPs do not indicate mountain and valley lines. I would like to know how to find out which one is mountain or valley lines. Is there any general principles or rules?
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Re: Crease Pattern FAQ

Postby govind729 » April 22nd, 2017, 4:43 pm

can i get help folding quieten gray wolf from cp
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Re: Crease Pattern FAQ

Postby Andre-4 » February 14th, 2018, 7:15 pm

jeffng wrote:Many complex CPs do not indicate mountain and valley lines. I would like to know how to find out which one is mountain or valley lines. Is there any general principles or rules?

No rules because it could be the same colour both sides which means thats easier to fold than duo coloured paper,you flip it over.
Alot of the cases ive found the mountain fold is closest to the edge but there are many exceptions with human subjects and c.ps with level shifters.look for sinks and rabbit ears too those are rarely placed upside-dowm
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