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Robert J. Lang - A Miura-ken Beauty Rose
Posted: April 10th, 2006, 9:04 pm
Lang made a new rose :
Impressive, isn't it ?
But the most impressive is the CP, it looks quite simple...
http://www.langorigami.com/art/gallery/ ... ?name=rose
Anybody tried to fold it ?
Posted: April 11th, 2006, 1:38 am
don't mean to make fun of his new rose, but i like his leaves, does any body have any clue how to fold these leaves,(they look like they are plastic) I think the kawasaki is much better than this one.
Posted: April 11th, 2006, 2:21 am
I would hate to fold the 1/11's and ../80's though. I think I'll just stick to kawasaki
Posted: April 11th, 2006, 9:24 am
It looks amazing!
Has anyone tried folding it yet?
Posted: April 11th, 2006, 10:00 am
Some help from Lang on the origami-list :
> However, I've tried collapsing the crease pattern and have a question.
> Is the tube you form before squashing it down a pentagon or a square
> in the cross-section?
I don't form a tube before squashing it down. I pleat the horizontal creases
and then do lots of multiple reverse folds to form the ring. The bottom ring
forms a flat pentagon; the rings above it do not lie flat.
Hope this helps,
P.S. I'll probably teach this in NY this June.
> http://www.langorigami.com/art/gallery/ ... ?name=rose
> I don't know about Miura ken but the general concept
> with the accordion pleats then multiple reversed
> multiple times to form a spiral sure reminds me of
> Meguro's sea urchin.
The general concept of filling a square with a 5x5 array of
Waterbomb-base-like thingies to get a bunch of flaps reminds *me* of a
different sea urchin ;o).
But to be more specific, for this design, after the initial set of pleats,
you make a series of crimps creating parallel rings, so that alternating
horizontal crease lines end up tracing the circumference of each ring.
Whereas a quick check of "Quarterly Oru Diagrams #2" shows that in Meguro's
urchin each equivalent horizontal pleat goes from the center of the ring out
to the edge and back to the center over and over, rather than tracing the
circumference of the ring.
Or, put differently, Meguro's urchin is formed via a sequence of purely
inside reverse folds, while in this design the reverse folds alternate
between inside and outside reverse folds. (Like the Miura-ori, hence the
homage in the name.) In fact, one way to construct the shape is to start
with a Miura-ori, then stretch it into a ring and join the ends. (Which is
basically what I did in some early versions.)
Of course, there's also a little shaping that goes on at the end. Just a wee
This is from the messages "Origami flower SOS" and "Robert Lang's Rose (was Re: Origami flower SOS)"
Posted: April 11th, 2006, 10:03 am
that one is of course more realistic than the kawasaki rose. didn't I read somewhen, that Lang said he don't like the compressed look of the kawasaki rose? he said, that he always saw roses that where opened a lot more.
he's rose is surely a very nice one
Posted: April 11th, 2006, 12:09 pm
Iv'e managed to make something using the description given by lang above, but I can't see how to turn it into a rose
Posted: April 11th, 2006, 4:03 pm
Perhaps Artur Biernacki could help us solve this CP!
If he canÂ´t do it, nobody else can!
Posted: April 11th, 2006, 5:37 pm
I came up with this:
Hints for the precreasing:
1. Of the vertical lines you only need the valley folds (yellow) and the zig-zag-mountain folds (black). When I printed the CP the vertical mountain-folds appeared lighter than the zig-zag ones which in Lang's CPs usually means that those lines are for reference only and don't need to be folded.
2. For the one I folded I printed the CP. Lang said that there is an easy way to find the essential landmarks without having to fold 80ths but I haven't figured out that way yet. The only hint I can give you is that the bottom two stripes of 10/80 are making up 1/4 together so you should get those two lines rather easily. I'm not sure about the others.
Hints for collapsing the CP:
1. Pleat the horizontal lines first, the valley fold lines will remain valley folds during the whole collapsing process.
2. Start with the left-most zig-zag mountain fold as a series of reverse folds.
3. Continue to the right making a series of crimp folds along the vertical valley fold and the zig-zag mountain fold next to it. This will become more difficult the more to the right you are coming because the paper will start to overlap.
4. After you finished collapsing try to arrange the overlapping regions evenly.
Hints for forming the rose:
1. I think for this model it is very essential to use the right kind of paper. Copy paper like the one I used isn't very suitable for it, but I always print CPs for practising first. Thin paper in a nice rose-like colour would be best. Maybe tissue-foil or probably better back-coated paper of some sort so you can form the leaves nicely in the end.
2. When you have the collapsed CP you can continue twisting the rose in the direction it already is twisted while holding the base. Start the twisting from the bottom working your way up. That way you can distribute the leaves equally.
Hope I wasn't too confusing and was able to help a bit
Posted: April 11th, 2006, 6:07 pm
I will try printing out the CP and collapsing it.
If you decide to fold the rose again using more suitable paper, please show us a picture of it!
Posted: April 11th, 2006, 6:27 pm
IÂ´ve got something similar to what youÂ´ve got!
Robert Lang wrote:There is an easier way, and you *don't* actually start by dividing the square into 80ths, fortunately. But it's too much to describe in an email; you'll just have to come to NY and take the class ;o). Or I'll diagram it.
Hmmm... Let us put our thinking caps!
Posted: April 11th, 2006, 6:54 pm
how long did it take you to do it?
hope for a small number
Posted: April 11th, 2006, 8:18 pm
It doesn't take long once you figured out how to do it. Maybe 30 minutes at most.
Posted: April 12th, 2006, 12:00 am
Here is my second attempt, this time with 13cm x 13cm Kami:
I used Lang's ReferenceFinder
to give me this red dot in the CP
and used the following instructions it gave me, choosing them because they seemed to be the easiest (i.e. less additional creases in the model) of the offered choices
It worked perfect for getting the 11ths, but for the other lines it was a bit of so I had to slide them into the right place.
Even though the horizontal lines I got weren't exactly right the collapsing worked just as well.
I'll continue to play around to find a better reference point and will tell you about my progress
Another important note if you are working with two-coloured paper. If you read the CP with black lines as mountain folds and yellow lines as valley folds, the colour you want for the rose has to be underneath and the white side up.
Posted: April 12th, 2006, 3:03 am
Looking good Daydreamer
Big difference between your 1st & 2nd.
Thanks for the help, I'm going to try this soon.