I've actually planned to add another graft to get a longer tail and legs. That will give me more paper for the wings at the same time. I also need to optimize the basic CP a bit so that it is foldable without the need of 100 reference points.wolf wrote:Do you plan to stuff more paper into the wings?
The d20 origami challenge!
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So long and keep folding ^_^
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Thanks!Kaimon wrote:the paper seems so be quite good, too...would you tell me which kind of paper you used for the white dragon?...and how do you keep the layers together?
That dragon uses Thai Saa:
http://www.umthai.com/detail.php?ID_Pro=01262900001
The paper is excellent, but the larger rice stalks got very very annoying, especially when they run across a crease. After resizing with MC, the paper retained creases extremely well, so the layers stayed together without requiring too much more MC.
The layers do slowly come apart if you leave it out in ambient air though, due to the MC absorbing moisture, so the model had to be microwaved once in a while. I got tired of doing that eventually, so I started using a waterproof acrylic varnish to coat finished models. That keeps the water out so I've had no more trouble with wet-unfolding. One side effect is that it gives it that shiny, ceramic look.
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Goofed or gooped? Look here if it's the latter:steyen wrote:wolf,what is the meaning of goofed?
viewtopic.php?t=1304
Using the tried and tested pencil and paper method.steyen wrote:how do you design your models?by packing circles or treemaker?
=) thanks
thanks very much wolf
its interesting.can you elaborate more about it?i also tried designing using pencil and paper method but i find it hard to allocate portions of paper for flaps because the circle packing is difficult.(do you draw&pack circles during designing anyway?)Using the tried and tested pencil and paper method.
thanks very much wolf
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Griever 1.5 from 25cm x 25cm Kami
Even though it looks almost the same from the outside, I actually changed the CP a lot. The original Treemaker CP had many "uneven" angles and therefore I printed the CP for folding it. I rearranged the CP manually so that I got nice angles and straight lines which enabled me to fold it from something else than printer paper. Actually the CP as it is now is very much based on a simple fishbase....
The CP needs a few more adjustments (longer legs especially since they are very stumpy now....) and then I'll try it with some foil to be able to shape it better
Even though it looks almost the same from the outside, I actually changed the CP a lot. The original Treemaker CP had many "uneven" angles and therefore I printed the CP for folding it. I rearranged the CP manually so that I got nice angles and straight lines which enabled me to fold it from something else than printer paper. Actually the CP as it is now is very much based on a simple fishbase....
The CP needs a few more adjustments (longer legs especially since they are very stumpy now....) and then I'll try it with some foil to be able to shape it better
So long and keep folding ^_^
Gerwin
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A theoretical origami design (LONG POST WARNING!)
I think the easiest way to answer this is just to give an example of how it's done. Let's say we want to try and come up with a griever. The first step is to translate the thing into its tree figure:steyen wrote:its interesting.can you elaborate more about it?
What I do is to work on bits of it at a time. One subunit would be the arm with the spikes. This is relatively straightforward:
- 5 1-unit flaps for the fingers
a 3-unit river for the forearm
a 4-unit and two 2-unit flaps for the spurs
a 4-unit river for the upper arm.
- 5 2-unit flaps for the horns
a 2 unit-flap for the face
a 4-unit flap for the front mane
a 4-unit flap for the rear mane
a 2-unit river for the neck.
- 5 1-unit flaps for the toes
a 7-unit river for the leg
a 6-unit flap for the tail.
So now that we've got all these bits, we'll just need to put it together into a square:
Note how nicely it fits into a 48x48 grid? That's part of the experience I mentioned earlier. At this point, all you need to do is to fill out the creases. The most straightforward method would be to just use 45/90 degree box pleats:
If you want to use the 22.5/45/90 geometry, this can be done as well - Connect the centres of the squares, shift everything around until it fits. How this is done, is again one of those experience things.
All this can be done with a pencil and a pad of graph paper, but since I don't have a scanner, I did it on a cad program instead for easy upload.
So there you go, a theoretical design for a griever. Anyone up for actually folding it? A 48x48 grid isn't so bad for a box pleat (Hojyo Takashi's Thunder God uses 64x64) - fold the square in thirds, half to get 6ths, then 12ths, then 24ths, then 48ths.
Last edited by wolf on May 3rd, 2006, 3:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Well, that's one of the problems with CPs in general (no matter if you designed them yourself or are trying to fold someone else's). After you have finally managed to collapse the CP into a base there is still a lot of designing involved to actually turn the base into the intended model.polop wrote:I'm able to make them but I cannot turn it into a model.
On the other hand this is also a very nice thing, because you can use the same CP to make all kinds of different models
So long and keep folding ^_^
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Yep, that's generally true. A model takes 15 minutes to design, collapsing the CP into the base takes 30 minutes, and putting the finishing touches takes a week, at least.Daydreamer wrote:Well, that's one of the problems with CPs in general (no matter if you designed them yourself or are trying to fold someone else's). After you have finally managed to collapse the CP into a base there is still a lot of designing involved to actually turn the base into the intended model.
The science of folding is all in the first 15 minutes, the craft of folding is in the next 30, and the art of folding is in the week or so it takes to produce a complete model.