Origami Wetfolding Rescue Mission!

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Nathan
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Origami Wetfolding Rescue Mission!

Post by Nathan »

Hehe I've gotten myself into a mess >.<
I'm folding a complex model for a school project. I started yesterday with a nice big sheet of hanji, which is the first sheet of 'real' nice paper I've ever used (mainly I use foil). I attempted wetfolding with it up to the base (wetfolding, another technique I've never really used before). I used a small spray bottle to moisten the paper. However, the real problem is that I did not think the paper needed a resizing, which apparently it does because the fibers keep coming off and the paper does not hold it's shape. I don't have any methylcellulose yet but I'm trying to aquire some (but the good stores were all closed on Sunday). So, the model I have is fuzzy because of the fibers and it is not very stiff. If I aquire the methylcellulose and miraculously mix up a good consistency on my first try, can I still 'save' my model? Can I directly apply the MC on the folded model to strengthen it but withou gluing the layers together? I want the paper to be crispy when dry and the fibers not coming off.
Any quick help is greatly appreciated.
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quesoonfire
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Post by quesoonfire »

It is possible that that could work. If you dont have methyl cellulose you can just mix glue with water.
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origamimasterjared
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Post by origamimasterjared »

Depending on the piece, you can definitely save it. If it's an arthropod, it's easy. If it's a bear you may have some problems. If it's something where pinching lots of layers together is a good thing, just slather those flaps with MC and pinch into shape and then dry it. (Let it dry/blow dryer/microwave). You can also paint the MC on to the surface of wider areas. It's just really hard to get it into the interior layers, especially without gluing them together.


Next time though: Get the paper saturated in MC before folding. Then let it dry. After it's dry you can fold it. Either fold it dry and then wet it after the base, or just wet-fold it. But make sure the paper is all dry first. Remember, wetfolding works better with thick paper.
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Post by HankSimon »

Depending on the model, it is possible to fold, and dry, the re-dampen and adjust.

You might get some toothpicks, paperclips, clamps, clothespins and paintbrushes to help manipulate the texture and wetting as you fold different sections. I think that a hairdryer is a good idea... and you could probably buy one from a thrift store (if you don't have one). You can get clothespins from dollar stores.

I'm not sure that I trust a microwave for drying.

Do we get to see pictures ?

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Nathan
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Post by Nathan »

Thanks for all your help! I am very happy now that I know that I can still make my model good. (I was in a state of semi-depression) :lol:

I think I found a MC supplier, so Ill try to get some tomorrow.
Question: If I paint the MC on the folded model/base, will I still be able to unfold it? (I hope so) I don't want the layers to be glued together. Because I want it to still be unfoldable, do I have to partially unfold an area to apply MC or can I just (carefully) slather it without worry?

The model is a swordsman I've been designing for a long, long time for my IB MYP project. The final version is version 5.0, after versions 1.0, 1.5, 2.5, 3, and 4. I called him a myrmidon, although he is really a character named Ike from the video game series Fire Emblem. I'll post the crease pattern when I draw it (I have the crease pattern in several cut-up parts and I want to keep it a suprise). While folding, I use little mini-clothepins to hold the paper with cut-up bits of index cards to protest the paper from dents and color from the clothepins (they are apparently colored with unstable dyes and bleed. One bled through the index card and made a little pink dot on the underside of the sword. Here are some pictures:

Image

Image

Image

(On my flickr site I put notes on the model.)
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qtrollip
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Post by qtrollip »

Very nice. Show the finished model!!
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Post by ahudson »

the fibers keep coming off and the paper does not hold it's shape
I haven't worked with Hanji much, but it sounds like you're using too much water... quite honestly just a little dampness will do. Try holding th model two or three feet from the spray bottle, and only spraying once every six to ten inches; the water should diffuse into the paper if you give it a couple of seconds.

IMHO with this sort of model, it's better to fold the base and only use wetfolding to solidify it and work in the details... otherwise the paper tends to look very abused. This way you can also apply water to specific sections of the paper, while letting other parts remain dry.

With simple models you would wet fold the entire time, because you're trying to get a more organic, abstracted look; but with complex folding, it's all about the number and definition of the points, and the wet-folding is used more to get the paper to stay where you want it, and to add more character to the model.
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Post by Nathan »

Ah... The store I went to today after scholl which I thought had MC actually did not... The store had something that sounded like it, but was not...

I'll keep looking for MC, but I've lost my vigor. Wasted three hours of my Mom's time driving me to each store... So instead, I mixed elmers glue with water to make a subsitute solution. I unfolded the base and brushed on some of the solution. Before that, I tested my solution on some scrap pieces and I think it helped.

Thanks for your advice ahudson, that really helps! I'll keep that in mind when wetfolding. It's hard to tell when the paper is damp because the hanji is so thin. Also, in Colorado where I live, there is like 0.00% humidity, so the water evaporates quite quickly.
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ahudson
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Post by ahudson »

Also, in Colorado where I live, there is like 0.00% humidity, so the water evaporates quite quickly.
Yeah, that could be a bit of a problem. On really humid days, sometimes all I have to do is breathe on the paper (granted, I was using small paper!). But generally we have relatively low humidity as well, and it usually still works.
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Post by xaoslord »

Nathan wrote:Ah... The store I went to today after scholl which I thought had MC actually did not... The store had something that sounded like it, but was not...

I'll keep looking for MC, but I've lost my vigor.
I had the same problem when trying to track down MC. I finally found it at a paint supply store. Search for a "Porter Paints" supplier near you. They carry MC under the brand name Methylan. They do have locations in Colorado. Here is a link:

http://www.porterpaints.com/where_to_buy.htm

Good luck!
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Nathan
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Post by Nathan »

Well actually, I just got a small bottle of Methyl Cellulose today from my Chemistry teacher :D. I can also get free refills if I run out :D :D :D. Schools can get the stuff from chemical suppliers.
She also gave me the MSDS sheet with information about MC.
One part says that Methyl Cellulose also goes by the name Methocel.

Well since I already painted a solution of diluted Elmer's glue on the paper, I'll use the MC later with other papers.
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Post by HankSimon »

Some helpful references:

http://mette.pederson.com/Backcoat.htm
( I had to use the cached copy in Google)
Preparing the Methyl Cellulose Ingredients:

* A bowl
* 1.5 cups of warm to hot water
* 2 teaspoons of methyl cellulose

In a small bowl or a Tupperware® container
combine the Methyl Cellulose (MC) with a cup of warm to hot water.
Stir the powder into the water until completely mixed.
You'll have to wait a while for the MC to absorb all that water.
This may take up to 15 minutes, and you might want to stir it
several times to speed up the process. When it's ready the
mixture should have a consistency of the slightly opaque gel
that looks like the ectoplasm from Ghostbusters.
For backcoating you want this mixture to be pretty thin,
like split pea soup in consistency. You can add more water
or MC to get your mixture to the right consistency as necessary.
Just be sure it’s not too runny. If the mixture thickens overnight,
just add a few drops of water to return it to the correct consistency.


viewtopic.php?t=3435

http://www.langorigami.com/info/paper/w ... apers.php4
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Nathan
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Post by Nathan »

Thanks for the instructions and references! I finished the Myrmidon version 5.0 just now, so here are pictures!
Image
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Image
Image
Image
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Thanks to everyone for all your help!
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Post by qtrollip »

Very nice!
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Post by JVega »

Awesome!! I'd like to fold that too :D
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